As Ramadan ends, a new cookbook sheds light on Pakistan’s varied cuisine

As Ramadan ends, a new cookbook sheds light on Pakistan’s varied cuisine
This combination of photos shows cover art for the cookbook “Pakistan,” by Maryam Jillani, left, and a dessert recipe from the book called seviyan. (Hardie Grant Publishing via AP, left, and Sonny Thakur via AP)
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Updated 25 March 2025
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As Ramadan ends, a new cookbook sheds light on Pakistan’s varied cuisine

As Ramadan ends, a new cookbook sheds light on Pakistan’s varied cuisine
  • Cutlets, kebabs, mutton karahi, diced meat simmered in tomato sauce spiked with ginger and chilies, and more round out the meal on the Eid Al-Fitr holiday that marks the end of Ramadan
  • These dishes, and many of the associated ones, make it into Maryam Jillani’s book, but she would be the first to acknowledge they represent just a sliver of the nation’s varied cuisine

When Maryam Jillani was growing up in Islamabad, the last day of Ramadan was about more than breaking a month-long fast with extended family.
A joyous occasion, the Eid Al-Fitr holiday also was marked with visits to the market to get new bangles, wearing her best new clothes and getting hennaed. Not to mention the little envelopes with cash gifts from the adults.
“But, of course, food,” said Jillani, a food writer and author of the new cookbook “Pakistan.” “Food is a big part of Eid.”
At the center of her grandmother Kulsoom’s table was always mutton pulao, a delicately spiced rice dish in which the broth that results from cooking bone-in meat is then used to cook the rice. Her uncle would make mutton karahi, diced meat simmered in tomato sauce spiked with ginger and chilies.
Cutlets, kebabs, lentil fritters and more rounded out the meal, while dollops of pungent garlic chutney and a cooling chutney with cilantro and mint cut through all the meat. For dessert were bowls of chopped fruit and seviyan, or semolina vermicelli noodles that are fried then simmered in cardamom-spiced milk.
The vegetable sides were the one thing that changed. Since Ramadan follows the lunar Islamic calendar, it can fall any time of year.
These dishes, and many of the associated memories, make it into Jillani’s book, but she would be the first to acknowledge they represent just a sliver of the nation’s varied cuisine.
Her father, who worked in international development, used to take the family to different parts of the country. Later, she did her own development fieldwork in education across rural Pakistan.
Along the way, she found striking differences between the tangier, punchier flavors in the east, toward India and China, and the milder but still flavorful cuisine in the west, toward Afghanistan.
“I knew our cuisine was a lot more than what we were finding on the Internet,” she said.
After moving to Washington, D.C. as a graduate student, she started the blog Pakistan Eats in 2008 to highlight dishes that were lesser known to Western cooks. Research on the book began 15 years later, and she visited 40 kitchens in homes across Pakistan.
“Even though I hadn’t lived in Pakistan for over 10 years, each kitchen felt like home,” she writes in the book’s introduction.
She includes what she calls “superstars” of the cuisine, such as chicken karahi, one of the first dishes Pakistanis learn to make when overseas to get a taste of home. The meat is seared in a karahi (skillet) and then braised in a tomato sauce spiced with cumin, coriander, ginger, garlic and chilies before a dollop of yogurt is stirred into the pot.
Other recipes reflect the diverse nature of Pakistan’s migrant communities, such as kabuli pulao, an Afghan rice dish made with beef, garam masala, chilies, sweetened carrots and raisins.
“The idea behind the cookbook is to try to play my small part in carving out a space for Pakistani food on the global culinary table,” she said.
And of course, honoring her grandmother’s mutton pulao.
Jillani is hosting Eid this year at her home, now in Manila, Philippines, and she plans to make it, as well as an Afghan-style eggplant, shami kebabs, and the cilantro and mint chutney.
“If I’m feeling especially ambitious that day, I might make a second mutton dish,” she said. “I’ve been a bit homesick.”


Tate brothers will return to UK to face charges after Romanian legal proceedings, lawyers say

Tate brothers will return to UK to face charges after Romanian legal proceedings, lawyers say
Updated 30 May 2025
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Tate brothers will return to UK to face charges after Romanian legal proceedings, lawyers say

Tate brothers will return to UK to face charges after Romanian legal proceedings, lawyers say

LONDON: Internet personality Andrew Tate and his brother Tristan will return to Britain to face criminal charges once separate legal proceedings in Romania have been concluded, a lawyer for the siblings said.
Britain’s Crown Prosecution Service confirmed earlier this week that it had previously authorized charges against the brothers including rape, actual bodily harm and human trafficking.
The Tates are facing a separate criminal investigation in Romania over trafficking allegations, and the courts there have already approved their extradition to the UK.
The brothers have denied all the allegations.
“Once those proceedings are concluded in their entirety then The Tates will return to face UK allegations,” Holborn Adams, the law firm representing the brothers, said in a statement on Thursday.
Andrew Tate, a self-described misogynist who has gained millions of fans by promoting an ultra-masculine lifestyle, separately faces a civil lawsuit in Britain, which has been brought by four women and is due to go to trial in 2027.


Basmah Felemban unpacks memory, identity in Riyadh solo show ‘Vessel of Wreckage’

Basmah Felemban unpacks memory, identity in Riyadh solo show ‘Vessel of Wreckage’
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Basmah Felemban unpacks memory, identity in Riyadh solo show ‘Vessel of Wreckage’

Basmah Felemban unpacks memory, identity in Riyadh solo show ‘Vessel of Wreckage’

RIYADH: Seasoned Saudi artist Basmah Felemban’s work will make you think. In her latest solo exhibition, “Vessel of Wreckage,” which runs at ATHR Gallery in Riyadh until June 26, she combines elements that many of us can relate to while being authentically, fully herself.  

“In the past five or six years, my practice has been really an investigation of my family roots from Indonesia and — kind of as a result of getting into sci-fi — to have some imaginary explanations of those reasons why they came from Indonesia to Saudi, because I failed at the factual research, really,” Felemban, who lives and works between London and Jeddah, tells Arab News. 

“When did my family move? This is one of the mysteries — part of the myth of the family. I have no idea. I’d say that my granddad came to Saudi for work, probably in the Seventies. But I’d learned that Felemban, our last name, comes from an island called Palembang, so in kindergarten I used to tell people I was a princess because I’m used to, like, the Al-Saud family and Saudi Arabia, so I thought since I’m Felemban from Palembang, I must be a princess.” 

Growing up, Felemban assumed that they had no Saudi relatives, until her brother serendipitously found out that they had cousins in town.  

“I realized, ‘Oh! We do have extended family here; we’re just not connected to them.’ And that’s also part of the myth and the lore of our family story. Once I realized that, it kind of clicked with me that our identities are really just a construct — it doesn’t really matter if they’re factual. I don’t think my family intentionally tried to lie. I think they believed this was the story.” 

All of this was part of Felemban’s world building.  

“I think, in Hejaz in general, people came from all over and there was this whole umbrella under which we wanted to identify as ‘Saudi’ for a lot of time. Like, if you speak to me about anything Indonesian, I would have no idea, because my family really assimilated,” she says, adding that she hopes to visit Indonesia soon.  

“I wouldn’t say I feel like I’m part of a diaspora, even if I am, factually. But I think Saudi is a very specific, special case in terms of identity. I feel like I’m more interested in the family story and why their connections are the way they are. 

“I didn’t grow up in an environment where ours was a weird story,” she adds. “Even my friends that are Bedouin are still also away from where they are from.” 

Here, Felemban talks us through several works from the show. 

‘Pulang (To Go Home)’ 

Photo: AN/Huda Bashatah

There are five ship windows looking out on five different topics that I researched, from facts to absurd sci-fi stories. They’re videos collected from YouTube — just rabbit holes I fell into. I really like to document my research and my notes, then my work grows like a mind map — I connect words and then try to connect concepts between those words and visuals. The first window starts with a propaganda documentary about the colonial history of Indonesia and its impact on folklore dances and music. Then a scene that a lot of my world is based on; Indonesian pilgrims reciting a religious song about the prophet. 

I realized that another connection between Indonesia and Saudi is catfish — another creature of myth. A few years ago, people realized that there’s a lot of huge catfish in Wadi Hanifa and they started to ask: How did they come here? I like that, as a myth. In Indonesia, the catfish is a really huge asset, but also has some negative connotations.  

‘Fish from the Ground’ 

This work talks about the catfish myth. They are an invasive species and tend to be really vicious and really quick to adapt, so in less than a couple of hundreds of years it was able to evolve from swimming to being able to ‘walk,’ almost on land. That’s likely where the term ‘catfishing’ comes from.  

‘Wave Catcher’ 

When I was approached by the Islamic Arts Biennale (in 2023), I thought, ‘My work is quite futuristic, very colorful and digital, so how can (make it fit) in?’ I think of this work like an ancient machine used by the catfish to collect data by listening to sounds of the calls to prayer from countries around the Red Sea. And by hearing it, the fish are able to measure distances, and study the water and such. That thought was based on research from lectures from scientists. 

‘The Gömböc, the Turtle and the Evolution of Shape’ 

Photo: AN/Huda Bashatah

This is a game based on a lecture by a scientist. If you put the headphones on, you can hear the lecture and then when you reach the top of this fish mountain, there’s a room that has a table that also existed in the lecture and you can interact with that. It’s a video game I made with my husband. He’s an economist so he helps me a lot with conceptualizing what data could be like — that kind of geeky aspect of my work. It’s very experimental and it’s a little bit janky — in the best way possible!  

‘Elemental Sprite’ series  

These AI works — “Sphere,” “Rod,” “Disc,” and “Blade” (shown here) — are based on some of the same research as “Wave Catcher,” which is some sort of mathematical study of pebbles and the way that pebbles change in nature. But also, if you scan one of the squares, it animates. I’m very much a digital artist at heart and AI is something I’m really interested in, but I have to say that I don’t use AI in engines; I use sort of ‘offline AI.’ I use the modules themselves, the interfaces. Every six months, AI completely changes in quality because it really develops, and I learn more too. This is almost like a documentation of my learning curve, and of the technology itself. 

‘Before Asphalt’ 

These are pictures that I stole from my dad before he passed away. He used to work at the municipality, and these were pictures from the Nineties documenting some of the potholes around Jeddah. I like to think of the city as a galaxy and the potholes as portals. The yellow looks like slime — I’m definitely a cartoon girl and this is like “(Teenaged Mutant) Ninja Turtles” sludge. I think maybe it’ll appear again in another work and I’ll get more into this portal idea. 


REVIEW: Guy Ritchie’s ‘Fountain of Youth’ — ‘Indiana Jones’ wannabe fails miserably

REVIEW: Guy Ritchie’s ‘Fountain of Youth’ — ‘Indiana Jones’ wannabe fails miserably
Updated 30 May 2025
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REVIEW: Guy Ritchie’s ‘Fountain of Youth’ — ‘Indiana Jones’ wannabe fails miserably

REVIEW: Guy Ritchie’s ‘Fountain of Youth’ — ‘Indiana Jones’ wannabe fails miserably

DUBAI: You know those fake films you see in TV shows like “30 Rock” or, more recently, “The Studio”?  Guy Ritchie’s latest misfire, “Fountain of Youth,” captures that vibe perfectly.

A chaotic, charmless attempt at action-adventure, “Fountain of Youth” clearly takes its inspiration from “Indiana Jones,” but ends up as a muddled mess of clichés, clunky dialogue, and a lead who never quite convinces.

The latter is John Krasinski as Luke Purdue, an archaeologist-turned-art thief racing to uncover the location of the legendary Fountain of Youth — believed to be capable of bestowing eternal life — with the help of rich benefactor Owen Carver (Domhnall Gleeson), a billionaire with a fatal illness who’s ready to throw all his money into the quest.

When things go awry, Luke reaches out to his younger sister Charlotte (a resplendent Natalie Portman) for help. The squabbling siblings then set off on a globetrotting adventure, while being chased by shadowy organizations and Interpol.

The problem? Krasinski brings all the gravitas of a put-upon history teacher on a school field trip. There’s a stiffness to him that means you never quite shake off the sense that he’s just playing dress-up.

Portman and Gleeson fare better. Portman, playing a sharp-tongued art curator and a mother on the brink of divorce, injects moments of tension and vulnerability that almost make you care about the story. Gleeson, meanwhile, steals every scene he’s in as he descends into villainy. But even their combined charisma fails to inject life into the limp script.

Other noteworthy performances come from Eiza Gonzales, who plays Esme, just one of the many people trying to stop the siblings from uncovering the Fountain of Youth; and Arian Moayed, who plays Interpol’s Inspector Abbas.

Ritchie’s signature snappy style is drowned under a deluge of poorly choreographed chase sequences, same-y set pieces and exposition-heavy dialogue. The film looks expensive but feels lazy, with international locations reduced to postcard backgrounds.

“Fountain of Youth” wants to be thrilling, funny and smart. Instead, it’s repetitive, cringey and talks down to its viewers.


Recipes for success: Chef Georges Ikhtiar offers advice and a tasty beef recipe 

Recipes for success: Chef Georges Ikhtiar offers advice and a tasty beef recipe 
Updated 30 May 2025
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Recipes for success: Chef Georges Ikhtiar offers advice and a tasty beef recipe 

Recipes for success: Chef Georges Ikhtiar offers advice and a tasty beef recipe 

DUBAI: Georges Ikhtiar, head chef at Amelia Dubai, grew up in Beirut, where he remembers watching his mother cook “by instinct, without recipes or rules.”  

That early exposure sparked a curiosity not just for flavors, but for the process of cooking — how ingredients transform, how timing and technique matter. This eventually led him to Lebanon’s Ecole Hôtelière. 

A pivotal career moment came during his time in Peru, where he was introduced to the country’s bold, acidic and layered flavors. This now shapes his approach at Amelia, where he blends Peruvian ingredients with Japanese methods. 

Amelia Dubai. (Supplied)

Here, Ikhtiar reflects on how mistakes can lead to creative breakthroughs, and gives his thoughts on simplicity in cooking.  

When you started out, what was the most common mistake you made? 

Like many young chefs, I believed that more was more — that adding extra ingredients or steps would somehow elevate a dish. I loved experimenting, and while that spirit of curiosity still drives me today, I’ve learned that simplicity is key. The most powerful flavors often come from restraint and letting the ingredients speak for themselves. 

What’s your top tip for amateur chefs? 

Taste constantly. It’s the most important tool you have. And don’t let mistakes throw you off — every error is a lesson. Some of the best ideas I’ve had started as accidents. Cooking at home should be fun, not stressful. 

What’s one ingredient that can instantly improve any dish? 

In Peruvian cuisine, it’s definitely lime. It brings brightness, aroma and a sense of freshness that can completely transform a dish. Just a few drops can awaken the palate and sharpen and enhance every other flavor. 

What’s your go-to dish if you have to cook something quickly at home? 

A simple truffle pasta. I soak the pasta to speed up the cooking time, then toss it with a creamy truffle sauce, fresh shaved truffles and parmesan. It’s rich, comforting and comes together fast, but still feels luxurious. 

Amelia Dubai. (Supplied)

When you go out to eat, do you find yourself critiquing the food?  

Always. It’s part of the job. I’m always observing, analyzing, and seeing what I like or don’t like. But I keep it to myself; dining out is also about experiencing what other chefs are creating. 

What’s the most common mistake you notice in other restaurants? 

It’s usually to do with balance or execution, like undercooked elements, seasoning that is off, or dishes that feel overcomplicated. 

What’s your favorite cuisine? 

I gravitate toward Japanese and Peruvian food, naturally, but I’m always curious to explore. I like to see how others approach flavor, presentation and structure. Inspiration can come from the most unexpected places. 

What request or behavior by customers most annoys you? 

Honestly, nothing. I believe taste is subjective and the customer is always right. We’re here to create an experience that works for them, not just for us. 

Georges Ikhtiar grew up in Beirut. (Supplied)

What’s your favorite dish to cook? 

It is a dish called Adas be Hamid, which means lentils with lemon. My grandmother used to make it when I was growing up in Beirut. It’s incredibly simple but full of flavor and warmth. Cooking it always takes me back to my roots, and I love how food has the power to do that. 

What’s the most difficult dish for you to get right? 

Risotto. It’s a very delicate dish that reacts to everything — temperature, timing, movement, even the humidity. You have to be fully present when making it. One misstep and the whole texture is off. 

As a head chef, what are you like? Are you a disciplinarian? Or are you more laidback? 

I’m direct and hands-on, but not someone who shouts. I believe in open communication, mutual respect and building trust. My team and I have worked together for a long time, so we understand each other without needing to say much. There’s a flow in the kitchen when everyone is aligned, and that’s what I strive for. 

Chef Georges Ikhtiar’s hokkaido machu picchu recipe 

Ingredients: 

For the beef: 

250g beef tenderloin 

Salt and black pepper, to taste 

Cooked over a robata grill (or any hot grill pan) 

For the teppanyaki vegetables: 

2 tbsp vegetable oil 

20g Chinese cabbage, chopped 

3 rainbow baby carrots, sliced 

20g mange tout (snow peas) 

10g shiitake mushrooms, sliced 

20g baby corn, halved 

1 spring onion, thickly sliced 

2 tbsp soy sauce 

2 tbsp kimchi sauce 

2 tbsp sake sauce (optional for extra depth) 

For the shiitake sauce: 

300g fresh shiitake mushrooms, sliced 

1L fresh cream 

200ml milk 

Salt and black pepper, to taste 

1 small onion, chopped 

1 tbsp butter 

Instructions:  

1. Grill the beef: 
Season beef with salt and pepper. Grill on a robata grill until cooked to your liking. Let it rest before slicing. 

2. Sauté the vegetables: 

Heat oil in a pan. Add the vegetables and stir-fry for a few minutes. 
Add soy sauce, kimchi sauce, and sake sauce (if using). Stir well and cook until just tender. Season with pepper. 

3. Make the shiitake sauce: 
In a saucepan, sauté onions and mushrooms in butter until soft. 
Add cream, milk, salt, and pepper. Bring to a boil, reduce heat, and let simmer. Boil twice to bring out full flavor, then remove from heat. 

To plate: 

Slice the grilled beef. 

Place the sautéed vegetables on a serving plate. 

Lay the beef slices on top. 

Spoon the warm shiitake sauce to the side or over the top. 

Optional: If using a hot stone for serving, you can lightly reheat the meat on it just before eating for a fun finishing touch. 


Where We Are Going Today: Iris Cafe in Riyadh: diverse menu, inviting atmosphere. What’s not to like?

Where We Are Going Today: Iris Cafe in Riyadh: diverse menu, inviting atmosphere. What’s not to like?
Updated 29 May 2025
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Where We Are Going Today: Iris Cafe in Riyadh: diverse menu, inviting atmosphere. What’s not to like?

Where We Are Going Today: Iris Cafe in Riyadh: diverse menu, inviting atmosphere. What’s not to like?

Iris Cafe is an elegant dining destination nestled within the new Ramla Terraza complex, offering a delightful blend of food and ambiance. Located on King Fahd Road in the Sahafah district of Riyadh, this cafe and restaurant boasts a beautiful interior, complemented by both indoor and outdoor seating options. The upper floor features a stunning garden with an open seating area and a mocktail bar, perfect for enjoying a refreshing drink in a serene environment. 

The menu at Iris Cafe is a culinary journey, showcasing gourmet dishes inspired by international cuisines, including Mediterranean, Japanese, and Latin American flavors. Guests can indulge in a variety of offerings, from sandwiches and pasta to vibrant salads. The drink selection is equally impressive, featuring specialty coffees and a creative array of mocktails alongside delicious desserts. 

Visitors may begin with the Iris Oriental Dips, which include creamy black hummus, spicy roasted chickpeas, and special muhammara seasoned with parmesan cheese and fresh basil, all served with homemade crackers. This appetizer sets a high standard for the meal to follow and does not disappoint. 

However, the chicken tacos, featuring buttermilk-fried chicken topped with Asian slaw in a soft tortilla, are less memorable. On the other hand, the crispy chicken and shrimp wontons served with sweet chili and lime sauce are a highlight and a must-try. 

For the main course, you may try the glazed chicken, marinated and grilled with pomegranate sauce. The beef cheek, slow-cooked for 12 hours and served with caramelized onion cream, is absolutely delicious. This dish is a standout and sure to impress anyone looking for tender, flavorful meat. 

The San Sebastian cheesecake is rich and incredibly satisfying. Overall, Iris Cafe offers a wonderful dining experience with its diverse menu and inviting atmosphere, making it a must-visit spot in Riyadh.