The spirit of Bedouin hospitality thrives in Jordan’s tourism renaissance

Hashem Zuwaydeh, a Bedouin tour guide in the desert of Wadi Rum in southern Jordan. (AN Photo/Tamara Turki)
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Updated 10 January 2024
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The spirit of Bedouin hospitality thrives in Jordan’s tourism renaissance

  • Leveraging their inherently friendly nature, Bedouins excel as tour operators, desert guides, camel handlers
  • Jordan’s $3bn tourism industry presents challenge of preserving cultural heritage amid commercialization

AMMAN: In the deserts of Jordan, Bedouin communities are finding new ways to open their homes to the world, bridging traditional hospitality with the economic opportunities of global tourism. Whereas Airbnb listings around the world range from spare couches to mansions, in southern Jordan, hopeful visitors might encounter just a cave.

Indeed, Imad, a 34-year-old local from Petra, has ventured into the digital age by listing his own cave on Airbnb. The ancient city attracts nearly a million visitors annually, and Imad says his peculiar real estate is fully booked during the high seasons.

During their stay, guests are treated to fresh tea and enjoy traditional dishes slow-cooked beneath the desert sands, while their warm and welcoming Bedouin host shares old tales by the campfire.

Imad explains that this profound sense of hospitality is “deeply ingrained in his DNA.” He told Arab News: “It is a trait that has been passed down by our ancestors and is a legacy of tribal life in the desert.”




A Bedouin local sits on a rocky cliff in the ancient city of Petra in southern Jordan. (AN Photo/Tamara Turki)

Bedouins in Jordan maintain a strong connection to their nomadic origins, tribal affiliations, and ancestral lands, with cultural heritage remaining a source of pride. Hospitality is a key pillar of the Bedouin ethos, a trait believed to have been forged by the unforgiving desert terrain.

“A Bedouin would open his home even to a stranger because he knew that in the desert, he would one day also seek refuge,” Hashem, a 29-year-old local and tour guide from Wadi Rum, told Arab News.

“Hospitality was about security and solidarity. This was long before there was anything called ‘police’ or ‘government.’ Our people looked out for each other,” he added.

For centuries, the desert’s Bedouin inhabitants maintained their traditional agricultural and pastoral way of life before Jordan experienced a surge of global tourism in the 1980s. As places like Petra and Wadi Rum — famed for their archaeological and natural marvels — transformed into popular travel destinations, traditional values of hospitality seamlessly merged with the growing need to cater to visitors.




Young Bedouins in Petra offering tourists a ride on their camels. (AN Photo/Tamara Turki)

Leveraging their intimate knowledge of the desert and inherently friendly nature, locals excel as tour operators, desert guides, camel handlers, and souvenir merchants, all while offering visitors an authentic Bedouin experience.

But navigating through Jordan’s $3 billion tourism industry has presented the local communities with the challenge of preserving their cultural heritage in a rapidly commercialized world.

Hashem underscores the centrality of hospitality in Bedouin culture, explaining that, in keeping with an age-old Arab custom, a host would refrain from asking his guest about his identity or reasons for his journey for the first three days.

Bedouin hospitality is exercised through the symbolic ritual of serving coffee. The offering of three distinct servings — al-dayf (for the guest), al-kayf (for pleasure), and al-sayf (for the sword) — solidifies the bond between host and guest, binding them in shared respect and defense.

Today’s visitor to a Bedouin’s doorstep is typically not stranded or in need. Instead, many have abandoned the hotel chains to experience a way of life that cherishes a connection with nature and is unburdened by the trappings of urbanism.

“A lot of foreigners tell me they prefer Bedouin life. The city is short-sighted. Here your eyes will relax because you see all this open space. You don’t look at the time. This is freedom of the desert,” Awad, a 21-year-old cameleer from Wadi Rum, said.

With hospitality as a marketable asset, the symbolic pact formed through coffee is being replaced with contractually binding sales for goods. This commodification of hospitality has stirred debate among local communities, given its stark contrast to the traditional values that reject transactional interactions.




Imad and Faisal sit down with Arab News to share their experiences with hosting tourists in their Petra cave-dwellings listed on Airbnb. (AN Photo/Tamara Turki)

“Some locals view hosting tourists for money as shameful and dirty work. It’s definitely something you have to get used to,” Faisal, who also listed his Petra cave-dwelling on Airbnb, told Arab News.

Another local, Mahmoud, said: “I’m against making hospitality a business; it makes me sad. These people exploit the name ‘Bedouin’ to make money.”

However, many others perceive it as a necessity in a changing world.

Tourism plays a vital role in Jordan’s economy as one of the top two sources of federal revenue. In desert regions like Wadi Rum and Petra, locals heavily rely on visitors for income.

“All the job opportunities in our region are predominantly in tourism. We don’t have industrial or financial industries, but Allah has blessed us with a beautiful area like this. So you have to excel in the field you’re given,” Hashem said.

While economic opportunities are reshaping certain practices, many, like Faisal, tread cautiously. For example, he draws the line at charging guests for meals, saying: “I would consider it very shameful if I made people pay for their food. Our hospitality comes from the heart.”




Fadi, a Bedouin from Wadi Rum, opens his tent to tourists where he offers complimentary tea and an array of souvenirs for sale. (AN Photo/Tamara Turki)

Fadi, who runs a bazaar in Wadi Rum, illustrates how to strike a balance between tradition and trade. He offers a warm drink to every visitor who enters his tent, regardless of whether they purchase any souvenirs.

“We leave these jars on the table for whoever would like to give a tip, but we never ask,” the 31-year-old explained.

Fadi says that locals, for the most part, are happy with the increased income and improved standard of living that tourism has brought to his tribe’s area. He also highlighted that the industry provides a platform to showcase their heritage to the world, with tourists embracing customs becoming a source of pride.

“We are here in Wadi Rum in the name of Jordan and the kingdom to serve everyone. If I am the face of tourism, I see this as an honorable thing,” he added.




Fadi's friends stop by his tent for a with a tourist they are hosting for the week in Wadi Rum. (AN Photo/Tamara Turki)

For many like Hashem, working in the tourism industry has also allowed them to feel connected to contemporary Jordanian society and a wider global network.

“I’ve made friends from all around the world. Any country I want to visit, I know someone who would welcome me into their home as I did with them,” the 29-year-old said.

However, amidst this global convergence, he voiced concerns about fading traditions. Hashem misses the times when daily gatherings and conversations around a fire were the norm.

“Today, a man might not know his neighbor. Everyone is busy working,” he said.

“Back in the day, the Bedouin didn’t care about money. He had his goats, and that was all he needed. But now, he has to think about how to keep up with modern-day life and how to pay for his children’s school and university tuition.

“Now when you call on someone and tell them you’re coming over, he’ll tell you he’s busy or ask you if you want something. It’s no longer out of love.

“Then I wish I never called to begin with because now he thinks I want something from him. I want nothing other than his good health and well-being.”

The southern Jordanian economy is challenged, with comparatively less services when compared to the capital, which houses more than 35 percent of the country’s population.

Therefore, tourism is not only a revolutionary factor but also one of the last surviving economic lifelines — a volatile one, regularly influenced by the turbulent political developments in the region.


International community has duty to help achieve a Palestinian state, UN chief tells Arab News

Updated 11 sec ago
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International community has duty to help achieve a Palestinian state, UN chief tells Arab News

  • Antonio Guterres’ comments come ahead of a global summit this month, co-chaired by Saudi Arabia and France, on the implementation of a 2-state solution
  • The alternative, a single-state solution in which Palestinians are expelled or forced to live on their land without rights ‘would be totally unacceptable,’ he says
  • Guterres also pays tribute to 168 UN workers killed in action in 2024, including 126 UNRWA employees, describing it as the deadliest year for UN personnel

NEW YORK CITY: UN Secretary-General Antonio Guterres on Thursday told Arab News that the international community has a duty to do everything in its power to pursue a two-state solution to the conflict between Israel and Palestine, and to bring about the conditions that can make it happen.

“It is absolutely essential to keep alive the two-state solution perspective, with all the terrible things we are witnessing in Gaza and the West Bank,” he said.

“And for those who have doubts about the two-state solution, I ask what is the alternative? Is it a one-state solution in which either the Palestinians are expelled or the Palestinians will be forced to live on their land without rights? That would be totally unacceptable.

“I firmly believe that it is the duty of the international community to do everything to keep the two-state solution alive and then to materialize the conditions to make it happen.”

His comments came as Saudi Arabia and France prepare to co-chair a global conference this month in an attempt to hasten the implementation of a two-state solution and end decades of conflict between Israelis and Palestinians.

The effort gained further international support this week amid worsening conditions in Gaza as a result of Israel’s continuing intensification of military operations following the collapse in March of a previous ceasefire agreement with Hamas, and its decision to block humanitarian aid from entering the territory.

These actions have resulted in thousands of Palestinian deaths, the widespread destruction of civilian infrastructure, further mass displacements, and severe risk of famine, according to the Integrated Food Security Phase Classification, an initiative that aims to improve food security analysis and decision-making.

The devastating toll of Israel’s resumed assault on Gaza has sparked international anger, and Arab representatives have said the upcoming conference must look beyond mere diplomacy and deliver tangible steps on a path toward peace.

Speaking at a meeting of the UN General Assembly this month in preparation for the forum, Saudi Arabia said official recognition of the State of Palestine was a “strategic necessity” as “the cornerstone of a new regional order based on mutual recognition and coexistence.”

It added: “Regional peace begins with recognizing the State of Palestine, not as a symbolic gesture but as a strategic necessity.”

The high-level conference, scheduled to take place from June 17 to 20 at the UN headquarters in New York, aims to urgently adopt concrete measures to achieve the implementation of a two-state solution.

Palestine is officially recognized by 147 of the UN’s 193 member states and has held the status of nonmember observer state within the organization since 2012, but has not been granted full membership.

More than 53,000 Palestinians have been killed since Israeli authorities unleashed its military operations in Gaza following a Hamas-led attack that killed 1,200 people in Israel in October 2023.

On Wednesday, Guterres led a solemn tribute to 168 UN workers killed during 2024, describing the ceremony as not only a moment of mourning but a call for global reflection on the dangers faced by humanitarian workers. Of those who were honored, 126 were killed in Gaza and all but one of them served with the UN Relief and Works Agency.

Guterres said 2024 was the deadliest year for UN staff in the organization’s history and added: “More than one in every 50 UNRWA staff in Gaza has been killed in this atrocious conflict. Some were killed delivering life-saving aid, others alongside their families, and others while shielding the vulnerable.”

Families of the fallen were present at the annual memorial ceremony, during which Guterres described those who lost their lives as “extraordinary individuals, each one a story of courage, compassion and service.”

He emphasized the enduring commitment of UN workers despite growing global instability and said: “They do not seek recognition. They seek to make a difference. When conflict erupts, they work for peace. When rights are violated, they speak out.”

Guterres condemned the targeting of humanitarian workers and civilians in conflict zones and warned against what he called a growing tolerance for impunity.

“We will not accept the killing of UN personnel, of humanitarians, journalists, medical workers, or civilians as the new normal,” he said. “There must be no room for impunity.”

Despite increasing criticism of international institutions and growing shortfalls in funding for aid, Guterres said the dedication of UN staff remains unwavering.

“In a world where cooperation is under strain, we must remember the example set by our fallen colleagues,” he added.

He pledged to uphold the core values of the UN, stating: “We will not waver in our principles. We will not abandon our values. And we will never, ever give up.”


After decades in Assad jails, political prisoner wants justice

Updated 24 min 32 sec ago
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After decades in Assad jails, political prisoner wants justice

  • He has made it out alive after 43 years in jail, but tens of thousands of Syrian families are still searching for their loved ones who disappeared long ago in Syria’s hellish prison system
  • Showing old pictures of him in his pilot uniform, Tatari said he was not seeking revenge, but stressed that “everyone must be held accountable for their crimes“

DAMASCUS: Syrian fighter pilot Ragheed Tatari was 26 when he was arrested. Now 70, the country’s longest-serving political prisoner is finally free after Bashar Assad’s fall, seeking justice and accountability.

Tatari, arrested in 1981 and sentenced to life behind bars, was among scores of prisoners who walked free when longtime ruler Assad was overthrown on December 8 in an Islamist-led offensive.

He has made it out alive after 43 years in jail, but tens of thousands of Syrian families are still searching for their loved ones who disappeared long ago in Syria’s hellish prison system.

“I came close to death under torture,” Tatari told AFP in his small Damascus apartment.

Since a military field court gave him a life sentence for “collaborating with foreign countries” — an accusation he denies — Tatari was moved from one prison to another, first under late president Hafez Assad and then his son Bashar who succeeded him in 2000.

Showing old pictures of him in his pilot uniform, Tatari said he was not seeking revenge, but stressed that “everyone must be held accountable for their crimes.”

“We do not want anyone to be imprisoned” without due process, said Tatari.

More than two million Syrians were jailed under the Assad dynasty’s rule, half of them after anti-government protests in 2011 escalated into civil war, according to the Syrian Observatory for Human Rights monitor.

The Britain-based monitor says around 200,000 died in custody.

Diab Serriya, co-founder of the Association of Detainees and Missing Persons of Saydnaya Prison, said that Tatari was “the longest-serving political prisoner in Syria and the Middle East.”

Rights group Amnesty International has called the notorious Saydnaya prison outside Damascus a “human slaughterhouse.”

Tatari had been detained there, but he said his 15 years in the Palmyra prison in the Syrian desert were the most difficult.

The Palmyra facility operated “without any discipline, any laws and any humanity,” Tatari said.

Detainees were “not afraid of torture — we wished for death,” he added.

“Everything that has been said about torture in Palmyra... is an understatement.”

“A guard could kill a prisoner if he was displeased with him,” Tatari said, adding that inmates were forced under torture to say phrases like “Hafez Assad is your god,” although he refused to do so.

In 1980, Palmyra witnessed a massacre of hundreds of mostly Islamist detainees, gunned down by helicopters or executed in their cells after a failed assassination attempt on Hafez Assad.

Tatari said he was completely disconnected from the outside world there, only learning of the fall of the Berlin Wall and the collapse of the Soviet Union through a prisoner who had returned from a hospital visit.

In Sweida prison in the south, where Tatari was transferred after the 2011 revolt began, some inmates had phones that they would keep hidden from the guards.

“The cell phone gets you out of prison, it makes you feel alive,” he said, recalling how he used to conceal his device in a hole dug in his cell.

But after his phone was discovered, he was transferred to a prison in Tartus — his final detention facility before gaining freedom.

Tatari was one of several military officers who were opposed to Syria’s intervention in Lebanon in 1976, and to the violent repression in the early 1980s of the Muslim Brotherhood, Syria’s main opposition force at the time.

“Many of us were against involving the army in political operations,” he said.

After two of his fellow pilots defected and fled to Jordan in 1980, he escaped to Egypt and then on to Jordan.

But he returned when security forces began harassing his family and was arrested on arrival.

His wife was pregnant at the time with their first and only son.

For years, the family assumed Tatari was dead, before receiving a proof of life in 1997 after paying bribes, a common practice under the Assads’ rule.

It was then that Tatari was finally able to meet his son, then aged 16, under the watchful eye of guards during the family’s first authorized prison visit that year.

“I was afraid... I ended the meeting after 15 minutes,” Tatari said.

His wife has since died and their son left Syria, having received threats at the start of the protest movement, which had spiralled into war and eventually led to Assad’s overthrow.

During his time behind bars, Tatari said he “used to escape prison with my thoughts, daydreams and drawing.”

“The regime getting toppled overnight was beyond my dreams... No one expected it to happen so quickly.”


Without meat, families in Gaza struggle to celebrate Islam’s Eid Al-Adha holiday

Updated 53 min 33 sec ago
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Without meat, families in Gaza struggle to celebrate Islam’s Eid Al-Adha holiday

  • No fresh meat has entered Gaza for three months
  • Some of the little livestock left was on sale at a makeshift pen set up in the vast tent camp of Muwasi in the southern part of Gaza’s Mediterranean coast

MUWASI, Gaza Strip: With the Gaza Strip devastated by war and siege, Palestinians struggled Thursday to celebrate one of the most important Islamic holidays.

To mark Eid Al-Adha – Arabic for the Festival of Sacrifice — Muslims traditionally slaughter a sheep or cow and give away part of the meat to the poor as an act of charity. Then they have a big family meal with sweets. Children get gifts of new clothes.

But no fresh meat has entered Gaza for three months. Israel has blocked shipments of food and other aid to pressure Hamas to release hostages taken in the Oct. 7, 2023, attack that started the war. And nearly all the territory’s homegrown sheep, cattle and goats are dead after 20 months of Israeli bombardment and ground offensives.

Some of the little livestock left was on sale at a makeshift pen set up in the vast tent camp of Muwasi in the southern part of Gaza’s Mediterranean coast.

But no one could afford to buy. A few people came to look at the sheep and goats, along with a cow and a camel. Some kids laughed watching the animals and called out the prayers connected to the holiday.

“I can’t even buy bread. No meat, no vegetables,” said Abdel Rahman Madi. “The prices are astronomical.”

The Eid commemorates the test of faith of the Prophet Ibrahim – Abraham in the Bible – and his willingness to sacrifice his son as an act of submission to God. The day is usually one of joy for children – and a day when businesses boom a bit as people buy up food and gifts.

But prices for everything have soared amid the blockade, which was only slightly eased two weeks ago. Meat and most fresh fruits and vegetables disappeared from the markets weeks ago.

At a street market in the nearby city of Khan Younis, some stalls had stuffed sheep toys and other holiday knickknacks and old clothes. But most people left without buying any gifts after seeing the prices.

“Before, there was an Eid atmosphere, the children were happy … Now with the blockade, there’s no flour, no clothes, no joy,” said Hala Abu Nqeira, a woman looking through the market. “We just go to find flour for our children. We go out every day looking for flour at a reasonable price, but we find it at unbelievable prices.”

Israel’s campaign against Hamas has almost entirely destroyed Gaza’s ability to feed itself. The UN says 96 percent of the livestock and 99 percent of the poultry are dead. More than 95 percent of Gaza’s prewar cropland is unusable, either too damaged or inaccessible inside Israeli military zones, according to a land survey published this week by the UN’s Food and Agriculture Organization.

Israel barred all food and other supplies from entering Gaza for more than two months. It eased the blockade two weeks ago to allow a trickle of aid trucks in for the UN to distribute. The trucks have brought in some food items, mainly flour. But the UN says it has struggled to delivery much of the incoming aid because of looting or Israeli military restrictions.

Almost the entire population of more than 2 million people have been driven from their homes, and most have had to move multiple times to escape Israeli offensives.

Rasha Abu Souleyma said she recently slipped back to her home in Rafah — from which her family had fled to take refuge in Khan Younis — to find some possessions she’d left behind.

She came back with some clothes, pink plastic sunglasses and bracelets that she gave to her two daughters as Eid gifts.

“I can’t buy them clothes or anything,” the 38-year-old said. “I used to bring meat in Eid so they would be happy, but now we can’t bring meat, and I can’t even feed the girls with bread.”

Near her, a group of children played on makeshift swings made of knotted and looped ropes.

Karima Nejelli, a displaced woman from Rafah, pointed out that people in Gaza had now marked both Eid Al-Adha and the other main Islamic holiday, Eid Al-Fitr, two times each under the war. “During these four Eids, we as Palestinians did not see any kind of joy, no sacrifice, no cookies, no buying Eid clothes or anything.”


Iraq holds Kurdish government legally responsible for continued oil smuggling

Updated 05 June 2025
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Iraq holds Kurdish government legally responsible for continued oil smuggling

  • The ministry reserves the right to take all legal measures in the matter, it added
  • Control over oil and gas has long been a source of tension between Baghdad and Irbil

BAGHDAD: Iraq’s oil ministry said on Thursday it holds the Kurdish regional government (KRG) legally responsible for the continued smuggling of oil from the Kurdish region outside the country.

The ministry reserves the right to take all legal measures in the matter, it added.

Control over oil and gas has long been a source of tension between Baghdad and Irbil.

Iraq is under pressure from the Organization of the Petroleum Exporting Countries to cut output to compensate for having produced more than its agreed volume. OPEC counts oil flows from Kurdistan as part of Iraq’s quota.

In a ruling issued in 2022, Iraq’s federal court deemed an oil and gas law regulating the oil industry in Iraqi Kurdistan unconstitutional and demanded that Kurdish authorities hand over their crude oil supplies.

The ministry said the KRG’s failure to comply with the law has hurt both oil exports and public revenue, forcing Baghdad to cut output from other fields to meet OPEC quotas.

The ministry added that it had urged the KRG to hand over crude produced from its fields, warning that failure to do so could result in significant financial losses and harm the country’s international reputation and oil commitments.

Negotiations to resume Kurdish oil exports via the Iraq-Turkiye oil pipeline, which once handled about 0.5 percent of global oil supply, have stalled over payment terms and contract details.


Jordan, Spain sign partnership deal, affirm support for Palestinian state

Updated 05 June 2025
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Jordan, Spain sign partnership deal, affirm support for Palestinian state

  • King Abdullah meets King Felipe VI, Spanish PM in Madrid
  • Jordan plays vital role in supporting Palestinians, Pedro Sanchez says

LONDON: Jordan’s King Abdullah II and Spanish Prime Minister Pedro Sanchez on Thursday witnessed the signing of a declaration to establish a strategic partnership between their countries.

The deal is designed to increase cooperation in the economic, commercial, social, cultural and defense fields. A memorandum of understanding for the agriculture sector and an extradition agreement were also signed, the Jordan News Agency reported.

During his visit to Madrid, King Abdullah also met King Felipe VI of Spain. He praised the European nation’s support for Palestinian rights, its efforts to achieve peace in the region and its commitment to ending the Israeli war in the Gaza Strip.

He emphasized the significance of Spain’s decision to recognize the Palestinian state and said Jordan was working to gain greater European support for the Arab plan aimed at rebuilding Gaza without displacing its residents.

Sanchez said Jordan had a vital role in supporting Palestinians and that the war in Gaza must end.

King Abdullah was joined for the talks by Deputy Prime Minister and Foreign Minister Ayman Safadi, Director of the King’s Office Alaa Batayneh and Jordan’s Ambassador to Spain Raghad Al-Saqqa.