TRIPOLI, Lebanon: Tradition dictates that Muslims donate cuts of mutton during Friday’s Eid Al-Adha festival, which would spell brisk business for butcher Abdulrazak Darwish but Lebanon’s economic crisis has cast a pall over his trade.
“This year has been the worst for us because of soaring inflation,” said the 54-year-old resident of the northern city of Tripoli.
“There is no demand for meat or requests from clients to slaughter sheep this Eid Al-Adha,” he told AFP from inside his nearly empty store near the city’s port.
Thousands of sheep are usually slaughtered annually in Lebanon at Eid Al-Adha — the festival of sacrifice — one of two major holy days observed by Muslims across the world.
It is custom for the better-off to donate cuts of mutton to needy members of their community as a form of religious charity during the holiday.
But that might not happen this year, as the country is now mired in its worst economic crisis since the 1975-1990 civil war.
The Lebanese pound has in past months lost around 80 percent of its value against the dollar on the black market.
In a country where most consumer goods are imported, that devaluation has had a huge impact on prices and the purchasing power of ordinary Lebanese.
In Darwish’s butcher shop, one lonely cut of mutton hangs from a hook. Fridges next to it are completely empty.
For the vast majority of people whose income is not in dollars, the cost of a sheep has more than tripled since last year.
Darwish says the price he pays his suppliers is already prohibitive and leaves him with “no margin to make a profit.”
Tripoli already harbored some of the country’s poorest but the combined effect of the monetary crisis and coronavirus lockdowns is sentencing thousands of families to hunger.
This has upset Eid Al-Adha mutton donations, said Sheikh Nabil Rahim, who connects wealthy families with the needy during the Islamic holiday.
“Donations have severely dwindled by more than 80 percent which means no mutton this Eid Al-Adha,” he told AFP from his office, a stack of religious textbooks piled on his desk.
“A big segment of the Lebanese population are now preoccupied with themselves and their personal problems as a result of the economic crisis,” explained the man who runs an Islamic radio station.
Sitting on a chair outside her Tripoli apartment, Mona Al-Masri said she is preparing for a frugal Eid Al-Adha this year because of the downturn.
“Our priorities have changed,” said the 51-year-old, explaining she is not planning to buy any meat for the feast, which usually abounds with lamb and mutton.
Instead, she will prepare dishes using lentils, vegetables and herbs, she told AFP, explaining she usually relies on donations for mutton.
“This year it seems no one is planning to distribute anything,” she said.
Eid Al-Adha will still be celebrated this year even though many mosques will not hold public prayers and travel restrictions will limit annual Hajj pilgrimages and traditional family gatherings for the holiday.
Butchers have faced further complication due to power outages that have increased as state failure worsens.
“We can’t buy large quantities of meat, not even during the holidays,” said Ali Hassan Khaled, a 50-year-old butcher in a low-income Tripoli neighborhood.
He said he usually slaughters at least 100 sheep for his customers during Eid Al-Adha, but this year he has only received 10 orders.
“This Eid Al-Adha, it seems, people won’t be eating meat and won’t receive their portion of mutton donations,” Khaled said, circled by several hanging carcasses.
Salima Hijazi, a 33-year-old Tripoli resident, is one of them.
The woman usually prepares stuffed vine leaves with mutton for the feast — a staple holiday dish. But this year, mutton is no longer on the menu.
“Our incomes are nearly worthless... and we are now forced to change our eating habits,” she said.
No money, no mutton: Lebanon crisis upends Eid tradition
https://arab.news/brs6p
No money, no mutton: Lebanon crisis upends Eid tradition
- It is customary for the better-off to donate cuts of mutton to needy members of their community as a form of religious charity during the holiday
- That might not happen this year in Lebanon, as the country is now mired in its worst economic crisis since the 1975-1990 civil war
Where We Are Going Today: Suhail Restaurant in Riyadh
- The restaurant is named after one of the brightest stars in the night sky, historically used for navigation during long journeys, and is symbolic of the restaurant’s mission: to lead the way in authentic Saudi cuisine, combining traditional flavors with g
Suhail Restaurant offers authentic Saudi food with a modern twist. The menu at its Riyadh branch features a variety of dishes from all regions of the Kingdom, including farmooza, manto, saleeg, beef and chicken samboosa, and veal and lamb with rice.
It also features hearty soups such as jareesh, lamb oat, and sweet potato, alongside kbeibah Hai’l and vegetable muttabaq. There are several options for vegan and vegetarian diners too.
The current iftar offer costs SR225 ($60) per person, a reasonable price for this high-end dining experience.
The restaurant is named after one of the brightest stars in the night sky, historically used for navigation during long journeys, and is symbolic of the restaurant’s mission: to lead the way in authentic Saudi cuisine, combining traditional flavors with great service.
However, my experience at Suhail was not without some drawbacks. While the food was undoubtedly delicious, the seating arrangements left much to be desired. Our large group was split across four tables, which diminished the sense of togetherness that is such an important part of iftar.
The limited variety of desserts on offer was also a disappointment, given the restaurant’s otherwise rich offerings, I had hoped for a more diverse selection to complement the meal.
However, for those looking to enjoy a satisfying take on traditional Saudi cuisine, Suhail is worth a visit. It has two branches, one in MEFIC Center on Riyadh’s Northern Ring Road, and one in AlUla.
Where We Are Going Today: ‘Layali October’ – Egyptian flavors in Madinah
- If you prefer a little sunlight, the balcony seating gives you a cozy indoor experience with a perfect street view
If you are craving a little piece of Egypt right in Madinah, Layali October (October Nights) is the place to go. This cozy cafe on Zubairah Al-Roumiah Street is part of the city’s growing hub of trendy restaurants and cafes.
As soon as you step inside, you will be instantly transported to a classic Egyptian street cafe, the kind you would find in the bustling alleys of Cairo or Alexandria: Picture neighbors gathered around a table, sipping black tea or coffee, playing cards, debating life, and maybe even having a good old-fashioned “friendly argument.”
The cafe’s black-themed aesthetic is effortlessly cool. Vintage wooden chairs and outdoor seating let you enjoy the evening breeze while listening to the legendary tunes of Abdel Halim Hafez, Umm Kulthum, and Farid Al-Atrash.
If you prefer a little sunlight, the balcony seating gives you a cozy indoor experience with a perfect street view.
Layali October serves up some of the most authentic Egyptian flavors in Madinah. Their signature chay talgimah is a must-try, a strong black tea loaded with sugar, meant to be slowly savored by true tea lovers.
I went for the authentic Egyptian breakfast tray; it was a feast! The large round tray was filled with smaller steel dishes of foul (fava beans), hummus, labneh with cucumber slices, fresh arugula leaves, Egyptian white cheese, tangy pickles, black olives, crispy falafel, and shakshuka eggs. Served with warm white and brown bread, it was the perfect way to start the day. You may pair it with milk tea.
For lighter options, the cafe offers sandwiches such as smoky tuna, grilled chicken, halloumi, and falafel wraps. It also serves iced lattes, Spanish lattes, cortados, lemonades, and more.
If you want to try something sweet, you should go for their cream brulee; it is cold, creamy, and absolutely on point. For more details, visit @octobercafe_sa on Instagram.
Recipes for Success: Chef Dexter Gelizon offers advice, a recipe for avocado ceviche
DUBAI: Filipino chef Dexter Gelizon, is currently sous chef at Dubai’s sister restaurants Salvaje (which serves Japanese cuisine) and Arrogante (Italian).
“My journey as a chef began when I was 17 years old, helping my aunt run her food truck,” Gelizon tells Arab News. “It was there that I started honing my palate and developing my skills in creating innovative recipes. Over time, I fell in love with Japanese flavors and techniques, which completely transformed my path.”
But his love for cooking was sparked at a much earlier age.
“My earliest memory of cooking goes back to when I was five, making adobo — braised chicken in soy sauce — with my mom. That left a lasting impression on me,” he says.
Here he talks salt, simplicity, and sharpness.
What was the most common mistake you made when starting out?
Overcomplicating the plate. I’d focus too much on presentation and lose sight of the most important element — the flavor. Now, I prioritize flavor and quality above all else.
What’s your top tip for amateur chefs?
Invest in good-quality equipment and utensils. A sharp knife, a reliable stove or induction cooktop, and sturdy pans can make all the difference. Having the right tools makes the cooking process smoother, but it also sets the tone for a positive and enjoyable experience. When I see a well-equipped kitchen, it puts me in a good mood and inspires me to prepare food with care and enthusiasm.
What one ingredient can instantly improve any dish?
Salt. It has the power to elevate and balance the flavors, bringing out the best in every ingredient. But achieving the right balance can be tricky — it requires precision and care. Too little, and the flavors might fall flat; too much, and the entire dish can be ruined.
What’s the most common issue that you find in other restaurants when you go out?
The experience for diners starts with the service — it sets the tone for the entire meal. When the staff explain the dishes on the menu with enthusiasm and precision, it excites me and heightens my anticipation. However, if the service fails to make a good first impression, it can shift my focus, and I might start noticing flaws or areas for improvement. Service and atmosphere are as important as the food itself in creating a memorable dining experience.
What’s your favorite dish?
I always look for ramen. It’s incredibly satisfying. I love exploring how different chefs are evolving and innovating with flavors and techniques. Ramen is fascinating to me because it’s so complex — every component, from the broth to the noodles and toppings, needs to be perfectly balanced. It’s tricky to get right, but when done well it’s absolutely delicious and a true testament to a chef’s skill.
What’s your go-to dish if you have to cook something quickly at home?
A combination of eggs, sausage, rice, and soup. It’s quick to prepare, satisfying, and gives me the energy I need — perfect for a busy day.
What customer behavior most frustrates you?
What annoys me most is when customers deconstruct a well-prepared dish that has a perfect balance of flavors. Each element is carefully crafted to complement the others, so altering it can disrupt the harmony and intention behind the dish.
What’s your favorite dish to cook?
Braised short ribs in peanut sauce, a dish my mom calls Kare Kare. Braising the short ribs is a complex and time-intensive process, but the result is incredibly rewarding. There’s a deep sense of pride and satisfaction when you achieve perfectly tender meat paired with a rich, creamy peanut sauce. It’s a dish that carries a lot of sentimental value for me.
What’s the most difficult dish for you to get right?
From the Salvaje menu, the most challenging dish is the Salvaje steak. There are two crucial components to manage — the steak and the sauce. Timing is everything. If the timing is off, the steak can easily become overcooked, and the sauce can split and turn oily. Once that happens, there’s no way to fix it — you have to start over from scratch. It requires precision and focus to ensure it’s served perfectly every time.
What are you like in the kitchen? Are you a disciplinarian? Or are you more laid back?
I’m a disciplinarian, but in a calm and constructive way. I see myself as a teacher, focusing on guiding and correcting where needed. If I ever raise my voice, it’s only because something has gone seriously wrong — but I work hard to ensure it doesn’t come to that.
Chef Dexter’s avocado ceviche recipe
Char-grilled avocado with amarillo ponzu, fried corn, chili, mango, cucumber and onion
Procedure:
Cut the avocado into quarters, grill it to get smoky flavor, put on a plate and drizzle with amarillo ponzu, add the rest of the vegetables randomly, finish with salt and olive oil.
INGREDIENTS:
Amarillo ponzu
8g yellow hot pepper paste; 10g ponzu; 5g yellow capsicum; 6ml olive oil; salt to taste; lemon juice to taste
Procedure:
Roast the yellow capsicum, allow to cool then remove the seeds. In a food processor, mix all the ingredients apart from the olive oil until you get a paste. Slowly add the olive oil until emulsified. Season with salt and lemon.
Where We Are Going Today: ‘Salad Lab’ in Qatif
Eating healthily does not have to be boring. Colorful salads and earthy bowls are Salad Lab’s speciality, and this Saudi-owned food outlet offering flavorful healthy meals is sure to leave you satisfied.
From Mexican salad to Lebanese fattoush, Salad Lab’s menu has a variety of trendy and international salads for all tastes. Customers can customize their own salad, with endless options of vegetables and toppings.
Salad Lab also has warm dishes, such as grilled chicken and salmon with a side of vegetables, mashed potatoes or fluffy white rice.
Visitors will love their grilled salmon with a side of vegetables and mash potatoes. This savory and flavorful dish is cooked to perfection with a side of fresh produce.
Another great option for a lighter meal is their avocado chicken salad. This salad has sweet flavors from the honey mustard dressing and savory notes from the seasoned grilled chicken, and an added crunch from the topped nuts.
Salad Lab has only one location in Qatif and the restaurant is fairly small, offering limited seating. Visitors can also order online through the “Locate” food delivery application to avoid standing in line.
During the month of Ramadan, Salad Lab offers their combo boxes, which will include a main dish with a side, salad, sambosa, dates, and a drink of choice.
Salad Lab is a great option for those who are keen to maintain a healthy diet, and anyone craving a nutritious yet tasty meal.
Where We Are Going Today: ‘Mama’s Bagel
- Mama’s Bagel also serves fresh juices like orange, orange and carrot, and beetroot
Nestled in Riyadh’s vibrant food scene, Mama’s Bagel is bringing a taste of New York to the Kingdom’s capital.
This Saudi brand offers freshly made bagels that are as delicious as they are creative.
Inspired by the classic New York bagel, the founder wanted to create a place where people could enjoy delicious bagel sandwiches with unique flavors.
While Mama’s Bagel sticks to traditional New York bagel-making methods, it adds a twist by blending bold, local flavors. This mix of traditions makes every sandwich stand out.
The cozy restaurant offers a relaxed atmosphere for brunch, a quick meal, or a coffee break.
Among the best-sellers are the spicy tuna with avocado and the turkey with cream cheese, made in-house with fresh, locally sourced ingredients and served in satisfying portions.
For a gourmet twist, try the burrata turkey, which blends pesto with creamy burrata, smokey turkey, and herby pesto. The labneh and olives offer a Mediterranean-inspired treat, while the qaymer cream with honey is a smooth and naturally sweet option.
If you’re craving something comforting, the peanut butter and jam is a nostalgic choice that hits the mark.
Mama’s Bagel also serves fresh juices like orange, orange and carrot, and beetroot.
The modern, trendy vibe of the space captures the energy of New York’s iconic bagel spots while still feeling warm and inviting.
For more details, visit @mamas.bagel on Instagram.
