Arafat Day and the women of Makkah

Until the closure of the Grand Mosque due to the pandemic, women often would pack their food and head to the mosque to spend the day praying while they wait for sundown to break their fast. (MiSK)
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Updated 18 July 2021
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Arafat Day and the women of Makkah

  • As pilgrims head to Mount Arafat, the women of the holy city head to the Grand Mosque to honor a pastime tradition

JEDDAH/MAKKAH: At a time when millions of Muslims travel to the valley of Mina on the first day of Hajj, the women of Makkah head to the Grand Mosque to honor a pastime tradition only recently broken due to the COVID-19 pandemic.

The Day of Arafat, the holiest day in the Islamic lunar calendar, is dedicated to prayer and unity, and is a significant event for Muslims.
It is also a day that bears witness to a local phenomenon that has been practiced for ages. As millions of pilgrims head to Mount Arafat on the ninth day of Dul Hijjah, the official first day of Hajj, silence sweeps over Makkah, especially the Grand Mosque.
In mere hours, the floors of the Mataf around the Kaaba — once filled with people circumambulating in the white Ihram — is replaced with a mere handful of people, who are mostly women.
The phenomenon has been witnessed for as long as many can remember and is locally known as “Yawm Al-Kholeef,” derived from the Arabic word for “void” or “empty.”
When women and children head to the Grand Mosque, the men head five miles due east to Mina valley with the pilgrims.
Every year, Makkawis, known as “mutawefeen” across the city, prepare themselves for the Hajj season as soon as Eid Al-Fitr ends as they await pilgrims arriving from Jeddah through their ‘wukalaa’ or agents.
Women prepare their homes for welcoming and lodging their guests, who will stay for either a few days or up to four months, depending on the agreement between the mutawef, the wakeel, and the pilgrim.
“The relationship between pilgrims and mutawef is solid and is not controlled by economic interest,” Faten Hussein, a matawefa and journalist specializing in Hajj and Umrah, told Arab News.




This rare photo is from Bilder aus Mecca, an album by the Dutch orientalist Christiaan Snouck Hurgronje (1857–1936). Hurgronje lived in Makkah for six months, where he converted to Islam and became Abdul Ghaffar. (Supplied)

“The relationship is rather governed by human, spiritual, and religious ties. The profession, for the first generation of mutawefeen, was handed down for generations and considered an honor for those who serve and assist the pilgrims, looking after their comfort.”
On the eighth day of Dul Hijjah, men across the city — old and young — gather the necessary food, tents and gear, before guiding the pilgrims from the Grand Mosque to Mina, where they will stay for the duration of Hajj before they move to Mount Arafat after dawn on the ninth, marking the day of Arafat.
“The mutawefeen would then take the pilgrims to the Grand Mosque while praying along the way.
“The mutawef’s sons and at times even his daughters would be walking in the back with the female pilgrims. This is to ensure that pilgrims stay with the group and do not get lost nor left behind,” said Hussein.
Until the recent closure of the Grand Mosque due to the pandemic, women often would gather their friends, family members, and neighbors, pack their food and gear and head to the mosque to spend the day praying while they wait for sundown to break their fast.
In Islamic tradition, abled Muslims who are not performing Hajj are recommended to fast on the day as “it expiates the sins of the preceding year and the coming year.”




An 1895 illustration, from the ‘Classical Portfolio of Primitive Carriers,’ by Marshall M. Kirman, World Railway Publication Co., shows a group of pilgrims en route to Makkah. (GettyImages)

After spending the whole day at the mosque dedicated to their prayers and supplications, preparations for Eid begin, with women heading to nearby souks to buy toys for the children of the family and sweets for visiting guests.
Today, women still take advantage of the empty mosque and head out to perform Umrah rituals or spend a day praying at the mosque, something that became an annual habit for many in Makkah and nearby cities.
Jeddah-based graphic designer Nedaa Zuhair told Arab News that in her childhood, she noticed her grandmother and aunts going to Makkah every year on Arafat Day as she spent the day at the house of an aunt who decided to stay back.
“Up until recently, I’ve noticed that more and more women would head to Makkah for the day.

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On the eighth day of Dul Hijjah, men across the city — old and young — gather the necessary food, tents and gear, before guiding the pilgrims from the Grand Mosque to Mina, where they will stay for the duration of Hajj before they move to Mount Arafat after dawn on the ninth, marking the day of Arafat.

“Though at times I prefer staying at home and spending a relaxing day in peace, I did happen to go a few times in the past years and even though it would be eerily quiet, especially knowing that millions of pilgrims from around the world are gathered just a mere few miles away, it was a special feeling,” she told Arab News.
“In 2011, I had an experience of a lifetime when I was walking around the Kaaba and when I looked to my left, I found that barely anyone was touching the kiswa.
“I was so focused on completing my rounds that I didn’t realize I had a chance and took it. I touched and leaned on the Kaaba for what seemed to be ages, I can’t describe the sense of calm I got and the spiritual connection I felt. I never got the chance to touch the kiswa again but it is a memory I cherish,” she said.
“I found that simple traditions such as Yawm Al-Kholeef are closer to the heart than ever before since we can’t go to the mosque without prior permission due to the pandemic.
“I think one day we’ll be able to go back and do it again and I’ll  bring my young daughter along with me to get a sense of the day’s significance just like I had once with my grandmother,” added Zuhair.
After sundown, preparations for Eid commence. Trays of chocolates and sweets are readied, new clean clothes are hung, toys are stacked in a corner and decorations are on display as women return from the souks and market to add the final touches.
For three days, celebrations with close family and friends have been underway, but the work for the women is not done just yet.
Hussein explained that after the pilgrimage, the mutawefeen and pilgrims return home to a feast from the pilgrims’ land in their honor.
“In the late 19th century, a princess from Bhopal (an erstwhile princely state in India) told of her visit to Makkah and how she found the company of the guide’s women to be very enjoyable and important because it is founded on good treatment and great companionship,” said Hussein.
“The better the treatment the pilgrims receive from the mutawef’s family, the more famous the family becomes among the pilgrims, and the more pilgrims will come to visit them. It is a good means of advertisement for them among the people.”


Saudi Arabia welcomes formation of new Syrian government

Updated 30 March 2025
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Saudi Arabia welcomes formation of new Syrian government

  • Syrian President Ahmed Al-Sharaa announced a transitional government on Saturday, appointing 23 ministers

RIYADH – The Saudi Ministry of Foreign Affairs has welcomed the formation of a new Syrian government and hopes it will fulfill the aspirations of its people, reported the Saudi Press Agency on Sunday.

A statement emphasized the Kingdom’s commitment to cooperating with the new government, strengthening ties between the two nations and enhancing relations across all sectors.

The ministry also extended its best wishes to the new authority in achieving security, stability and prosperity.

Syrian President Ahmed Al-Sharaa announced a transitional government on Saturday, appointing 23 ministers in a broadened cabinet. The move is seen as a key milestone in the transition from decades of Assad family rule and to improving Syria’s ties with the West.


Saudi crown prince meets Lebanese prime minister in Makkah

Updated 27 min 48 sec ago
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Saudi crown prince meets Lebanese prime minister in Makkah

MAKKAH: Saudi Crown Prince Mohammed bin Salman met with Lebanese Prime Minister Nawaf Salam on Sunday at Al-Safa Palace in Makkah, the Saudi Press Agency reported.

The two leaders exchanged greetings on the occasion of Eid Al-Fitr and discussed bilateral relations, as well as the latest developments in Lebanon and the region.

The meeting was attended by Saudi Defense Minister Prince Khalid bin Salman, Foreign Minister Prince Faisal bin Farhan, Minister of State and National Security Adviser Musaed bin Mohammed Al-Aiban, and the Crown Prince’s Secretary Bandar bin Obaid Al-Rasheed.

Salam was welcomed at King Abdulaziz International Airport by Makkah Region Deputy Gov. Prince Saud bin Mishaal bin Abdulaziz, along with other senior Saudi officials.


French fry revolution satisfies Ramadan night cravings in Jeddah

Updated 29 March 2025
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French fry revolution satisfies Ramadan night cravings in Jeddah

  • One of Crusty’s visitors, Sukinah Qattan, told Arab News: “This atmosphere doesn’t just enhance the joy of tasting food; it also enriches Saudi Arabia’s culinary sector, supports local chefs

JEDDAH: During the holy month of Ramadan, Jeddah’s streets come alive with food stalls, drawing crowds to savor local favorites such as the popular “basta” fries pop-up experience.

Stalls, particularly those selling French fries, line the streets, bringing people together in a celebration of local flavors.

Food carts and traditional kiosks set up in alleyways of residential areas and in public squares serve delicious dishes and beverages, evoking nostalgia and reviving the spirit of the past.

After years of perfecting his steak-cooking skills, Abdoush decided to elevate the French fries game by adding premium steak cubes, topped with his signature sauce. (AN photo by Hashim Nadeem/Supplied)

The word “basta” comes from the Arabic term for simplicity, “basata,” to represent an experience that is modest, affordable, and rich in flavor.

In these attractive settings, markets bustle with activity as the aroma of kebda (liver), balila (chickpeas), and French fries fills the air, bringing the warmth of social gatherings that define the holy month.

Keeping tradition alive

Abdulrahman Ghazi, owner of the food stall Balilat Ajdadna, spoke to Arab News about the city’s love for its street foods.

“French fries have always been a Ramadan favorite, along with balila and liver. We’ve been serving customers in Al-Safa district for 28 years, and our loyal patrons know us well,” he said.

“We prepare kebda using an old traditional method, but with our own twist. We cook it with natural oil, suet, and lamb fat, without using any additional oils. This technique is highly favored by many,” Ghazi explained.

The authentic way of preparing balila takes more time and requires at least three hours of slow cooking over low heat with plenty of water, he added.

“In the past, balila was soaked for 12 hours before cooking to ensure it was thoroughly cleaned of bicarbonate residue, a crucial step that many overlook today. Unfortunately, some now use bicarbonate with a pressure cooker to speed up the process, which takes away from its true flavor.”

He insisted that the correct way to prepare balila is to let the chickpeas soak overnight, wash it thoroughly, and then cook it slowly.

“That’s why we call it ‘Balila Ajdadna’ — because it is made just like our ancestors used to prepare it in Makkah, where we originally come from,” Ghazi added.

The stall’s balila is priced is SR5 ($1.30) for a small plate and SR10 for a large plate. The small plate of fries costs SR6 and the large goes for SR12, with all the sauces one could wish for.

Although rising costs, particularly for oil, have led to price increases, Ghazi said that they strive to keep prices stable.

“Our prices remain the same throughout the year, even during Ramadan. We do not impose additional taxes, and we have always absorbed the costs ourselves.”

French fries take a new turn

While some vendors have remained loyal to tradition, serving fries with classic Saudi sauces such as garlic and homar (tamarind), others have introduced elements from various cuisines, elevating the dish beyond its conventional form.

In an interview with Arab News, Saudi content creator Abdoush, who has over half a million followers on social media, shared his inspiration for launching his fries stall — one that locals call “The Rich Man’s Stall” because its fries sell for SR60.

After years of perfecting his steak-cooking skills, Abdoush decided to elevate the French fries game by adding premium steak cubes, topped with his signature sauce.

“For me, it’s all about taking something familiar and turning it into an unforgettable experience,” he said.

His steak fries stall Crusty is located on Ali Abou Al-Ola street, operating from the backyard of a neighborhood home and serving lines of eager customers.

With innovative ingredients, such as wok-tossed steak cubes finished with a torch, Abdoush’s stall has attracted thousands of visitors during Ramadan.

The stall is a bustling business, with four counters dedicated to fries. Around 20 workers manage the operation, going through over 100 kg of steak per day and an unmeasured amount of potatoes.

According to Aboush, Crusty serves an average of 500 customers on weekdays, while on weekends the number soars to over 700.

“We do this out of love and passion. Food is truly amazing, it’s a blessing,” he said.

But what makes Abdoush’s fries expensive?

“It’s all about the process of making the fries. We don’t just fry them in regular oil — we add tallow and beef fat from the steaks. The steak we use is Russian striploin, a high-grade cut known for its marbling and rich fat content. We add about half a steak on top of the fries,” he explained.

“We also make a special sauce that we drizzle over the steak fries, but I highly recommend adding some homar (tamarind). It gives the dish a unique touch.”

Abdoush’s inspiration behind the steak fries is connected to Jeddah’s culture, especially the rise of French fry pop-ups. “Personally, I love making steaks, and with five years of experience, this was the perfect concept to bring to life.”

Crusty started last year and its popularity this year has been on a whole new level.

After Ramadan, Abdoush plans to launch his first Crusty restaurant specializing in steaks. “We won’t just serve French fries and steaks, we’ll also be adding burgers to the menu,” he said.

Residents and visitors flock to these stalls, where they not only indulge in delicious food but also experience live cooking demonstrations.

One of Crusty’s visitors, Sukinah Qattan, told Arab News: “This atmosphere doesn’t just enhance the joy of tasting food; it also enriches Saudi Arabia’s culinary sector, supports local chefs, and reinforces the presence of traditional dishes in the modern cultural scene.”

Other fries stalls offer more affordable fries. For example, Adani Bar Cafe and Ma’loom restaurant serve fries for no more than SR15.

However, their innovation lies in cutting the potatoes into cubes, instead of the traditional fries shape, and topping them with a cilantro, garlic, and lemon sauce, which visitors love.

Anas Abbas, a fries enthusiast from Jeddah, told Arab News: “Every Ramadan, I make sure to visit Adani Bar. I love their fries. They’ve truly become a Ramadan tradition. I always bring some home for my mother after her Taraweeh prayers because she also appreciates this delicious treat.”

 

 


Saudi leaders receive Eid Al-Fitr greetings from Islamic heads of state

Updated 29 March 2025
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Saudi leaders receive Eid Al-Fitr greetings from Islamic heads of state

  • King Abdullah II of Jordan, King Hamad of Bahrain and UAE President Sheikh Mohamed bin Zayed among those to send messages

RIYADH: King Salman and Crown Prince Mohammed bin Salman received congratulatory messages from the leaders of Islamic countries on the occasion of Eid Al-Fitr, the Saudi Press Agency reported.

Eid Al-Fitr, which will begin on Sunday after an announcement from the Supreme Court on Saturday, marks the end of the holy month of Ramadan and is a time of joy, reflection and unity for Muslims around the world.

Among those who sent greetings were King Abdullah II of Jordan, King Hamad bin Isa Al-Khalifa of Bahrain and UAE President Sheikh Mohamed bin Zayed Al-Nahyan.

The king and crown prince expressed their gratitude and appreciation for the messages and wished for “continued prosperity, security and stability for the Islamic nation, asking God Almighty to bless the occasion with goodness and peace,” the report said.


Ramadan reflections of a Brazilian in Riyadh

Updated 29 March 2025
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Ramadan reflections of a Brazilian in Riyadh

JEDDAH: Being in Saudi Arabia during Ramadan is a distinct cultural experience, providing non-Muslims with an opportunity to learn more about Islam and its traditions.

Brazilian teacher Talita Schneider Pereira moved to Riyadh in 2023 and says she has found inspiration in the warmth of a community that has welcomed her with open arms.

Speaking to Arab News about her second Ramadan in the Kingdom, Pereira said: “Even though fasting is not something I practice — coming from a different faith and cultural background — I try to take this month as a time for reflection and spiritual connection.”

Pereira was born in Sao Lourenco do Sul, a city located near the border with Uruguay in southern Brazil with 50,000 inhabitants. At the age of 27, she moved to Spain to pursue a master’s degree in teaching Spanish as a foreign language. 

“I have always been very curious, and in Spain, where there is a significant Muslim community, I had learned about Ramadan before moving here,” Pereira told Arab News. “I know it is a sacred month for Muslims; a time of fasting, prayer, and reflection, during which it is believed that the gates of hell are closed, and those of heaven are open. Beyond abstaining from food and drink, the most important aspect is the spiritual connection and the desire to strengthen one’s relationship with Allah.

“For me, it is a period I approach with complete normalcy, and perhaps that is why I do not find it difficult. It is true that schedules change and that the logistics of shopping or certain other activities are affected, but this is nothing compared to the profound significance of this month for Muslims. I try to embrace the experience and adapt to the country’s rhythms.”

This year, Pereira decided to wear the hijab at work to connect with her colleagues and students.

She said it is “wonderful” to see her students’ excitement when they talk about what Ramadan means to them.

“Their eyes light up as they share their traditions and beliefs. Even though I am not Muslim, hearing the call to prayer encourages me to engage in my own conversations with God more frequently,” she said.

Describing her own experience of the month of Ramadan in Saudi Arabia, she said: “When night falls, Riyadh transforms completely. It is as if the city changes clothes: the lights beautifully illuminate the monuments, the streets fill with people, and restaurants and malls remain bustling until late into the night. I am still amazed to see supermarkets open until 1 a.m. and shopping centers packed with people at midnight.”

As a teacher, the main challenge for Pereira is refraining from drinking water during classes. “It is not forbidden, but, out of respect for my Muslim students, I choose not to do it. Talking so much throughout the day often leaves my mouth very dry, which can be uncomfortable,” she said. “However, this is a minor inconvenience compared to the beauty of experiencing this season.”

Although she has spent only two years so far in the Kingdom, Pereira already has special memories she will cherish.

“On my last birthday, my colleagues from the Arabic department organized a small surprise party for me. I believe this says a lot about the hospitality and warmth of Muslim women, who welcome us with open arms just as we are. That gesture touched me deeply, making me feel a genuine and sincere affection,” she said.

And Pereira added that she looks forward to joining in the fasting at some point in the future. “I believe it is an experience worth trying, both spiritually and physically,” she said.