DUBAI: Few chefs have had a journey as dynamic and influential as Ritu Dalmia. From her early days in the family stone business, she has become one of India’s most celebrated chefs and restaurateurs.
Frequent work trips to Italy sparked her love for Italian cuisine, eventually leading her to open Mezza Luna in Delhi and Vama in London. Today, she is the force behind several acclaimed restaurants in India, Italy and the UAE, including her latest venture, Atrangi, in Dubai.
Beyond her achievements in the kitchen, Dalmia is widely recognized as a leading entrepreneur and social activist. She has authored three cookbooks, hosted TV shows and continues to mentor aspiring chefs.
Here, Dalmia discusses common kitchen errors, her favorite comfort food, and the small but meaningful rituals that elevate everyday cooking.
When you started out, what was the most common mistake you made?
Adding too many elements into a dish. It’s imperative not to stray from the main flavor, or the hero, of the dish by adding too many unnecessary elements. I still make mistakes, but that’s the thrill of being a chef. You are not a robot programmed to churn out a fixed model.
What’s your top tip for amateur chefs?
Play amazing music when you cook. A cook in a good mood always cooks a good dish. I would also say that whenever a dish calls for garlic, roast the garlic first.
What one ingredient can instantly improve any dish?
Hing, which is also known as asafoetida. Use it in tiny quantities to add depth, fragrance, and a subtle umami richness to dishes.
When you go out to eat, do you find yourself critiquing the food?
It’s shameful, but yes. I really don’t know how to let go and enjoy a meal. In fact, most of my friends refuse to eat out with me.
What’s the most common issue that you find in other restaurants?
That they spend a lot of money on décor and hardware, but not much on talent, both in the kitchen and service.
What’s your favorite cuisine to order?
I love Asian food and junk food when I eat out. Dim sum bars are a favorite.
What’s your go-to dish if you have to cook something quickly at home?
A khichdi — a one-pot meal with rice, lentils and vegetables; easy ingredients packed with flavor. This humble dish can be elevated to another level with toppings and garnishes.
What customer behavior most annoys you?
When they click their fingers to call the server to their table. Or when they ask for one dish to be divided in three or four portions. We even had one guest who requested that their soft drink be divided in three!
What’s your favorite dish to cook ?
My aunt Chanda was an amazing cook — a trait which, unfortunately, my mother didn’t share. Every time we visited Chanda in Calcutta, she would make a yoghurt khadi which was so fragrant and packed with herbs. Years later, when I was writing a cookbook, I begged her to tell me why her khadi was so different. She told me her secret was to add roasted crushed fennel and fresh coriander after the kadi was made and cover it for five-to-seven minutes. It’s a dish I make at least two or three times a week. I do it with a bowl of rice and some potatoes with cumin and the world suddenly seems to be a better place.
What’s the most difficult dish for you to get right?
Way too many to recount.
As a boss, what are you like? Are you a disciplinarian? Or are you more laidback.
You want my dirty secrets out? (Laughs.) I’m very disciplined and hardworking, and yes, I do lose my temper, and my vocal cords would make any speaker company proud. I’ve mellowed out a lot with age, but there is still scope for a lot of improvement. I’m learning that it’s unfair to have unrealistic expectations, and that that harms both my team and me.
Chef Ritu’s moong dal khichadi with vegetables
Ingredients:
2 tbsp ghee
½ cup moong dal
½ cup Gobindobhog rice (or basmati rice)
½ tsp cumin seeds
1 bay leaf
1 pinch hing (asafoetida)
2-inch piece ginger, grated (~1 tbsp)
1 green chili, chopped (optional)
½ red onion, finely chopped
1 tomato, chopped
Salt, to taste
½ tsp turmeric powder
½ tsp red chili powder
½–1 tsp garam masala
1 cup mixed vegetables (carrot, peas, cauliflower)
3–3½ cups water (adjust based on desired consistency)
Instructions:
1. Prep the dal and rice
Rinse moong dal and rice together in water 2–3 times until the water runs mostly clear.
Soak for 10–15 minutes while you prep the other ingredients. Drain before cooking.
2. Cook the tempering
Heat ghee in a pressure cooker or deep pot over medium heat.
Add cumin seeds, let them sizzle for a few seconds.
Add bay leaf and a pinch of hing.
Stir in grated ginger and green chili (if using), sauté for 30 seconds.
Add onion and cook until translucent (2–3 minutes).
3. Add tomato and spices
Add chopped tomato, cook until soft (3–4 minutes).
Mix in turmeric, red chili powder, and salt. Stir well.
4. Add vegetables, dal and rice
Add chopped vegetables, soaked dal and rice.
Stir everything together to coat well in the spices.
5. Cook
Add 3–3½ cups of water depending on how soft or porridge-like you want your khichadi.
For pressure cooker: Cook on medium heat for 2 whistles. Let pressure release naturally.
For pot: Cover and cook on low, stirring occasionally, for 25–30 minutes until soft and creamy. Add more water if needed.
6. Finish
Once cooked, stir in garam masala and let it rest for 5 minutes.
Adjust salt or spices to taste. Add a dollop of ghee on top if desired.
Serve hot with:
A side of yogurt or pickle
A drizzle of ghee
Papad or a simple salad for crunch
