Diriyah: A fragile but ‘enduring reminder of the frontiers of the possible’

British author Robert Lacey likened Diriyah to “a sand-blown Pompeii,” describing it as “an enduring reminder of the frontiers of the possible.” (Supplied)
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Updated 22 September 2021
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Diriyah: A fragile but ‘enduring reminder of the frontiers of the possible’

NEW YORK: Architect May Shaer marvels at the fact that Diriyah has endured for 250 years. Could this be because for centuries the ruins remained tucked away in the narrow Wadi Hanifah valley and so were spared the destructive effects of human interference?

Perhaps the harsh climate treated this oasis of mud-brick houses and ramparts a little more kindly than other historic heritage sites in the desert? Or are the ancient mud-brick building methods — that caused little or no harm to the environment and worked in harmony with the natural capacities of local ecology — more resilient that modern architectural technologies?

“It is not that often that you find a remaining example of a complete homogeneous urban settlement that prospered in a desert environment. In that sense, Diriyah is extremely rare,” said Shaer, who is the head of the Arab States Unit at the UN Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization’s World Heritage Center.

The ruins of the old city, which consist almost entirely of adobe, or mud-brick, structures, lie on either side of Wadi Hanifah, a narrow valley that runs south toward Riyadh and beyond. After their city was destroyed by the invading Ottoman army in 1818, the inhabitants of Diriyah moved to Riyadh, leaving behind the remnants of their former capital.

British author Robert Lacey likened Diriyah to “a sand-blown Pompeii,” describing it as “an enduring reminder of the frontiers of the possible.” It is divided into three districts, built atop the hills overlooking the valley. At-Turaif, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is the highest promontory of the three and the lower reaches are easily accessible on foot.

The city lay abandoned for more than a century before families began to trickle back in in the mid-1900s and build new mud-brick homes.

“Despite it being originally built with adobe, a very delicate material that needs constant maintenance and protection, the whole ensemble has retained more or less its original urban form, its structural integrity,” said Shaer.

To earn a place on the World Heritage List, she explained, sites must include enough remains to illustrate their history and “physically be able to explain their importance.”

“With most of (Diriyah’s) components still in place, you can read the plan,” she said. “You can understand how people lived here; how they interacted with, and built for, their environment. Diriyah tells the whole story.”

The addition of a site to the World Heritage List is recognition of its outstanding universal importance and value to the world. So what exactly does At-Turaif offer humanity at large? What can the rest of the world learn from its story?

“First, the citadel of At-Turaif represents a diversified and fortified urban ensemble, comprising many palaces within an oasis,” explains Shaer. “It is an outstanding example of the Najdi architectural and decorative style, which only developed in the heart of the Arabian Peninsula.

“Along with its remarkable sense of geometrical decoration, At-Turaif bears witness to a building method that adapted to its environment, using adobe in major palatial complexes.”

It is the story, then, of a people constantly at odds with hostile forces of nature, who made use of one of the few readily available resources, mud, in an original and innovative way to cope with the extreme desert climate and create comfortable living conditions. This ingenious tradition of building with mud bricks also utilized other local natural resources that were easy to find, including limestone for foundations, and wood from palm trees. The Najdi architects also made use of clay-mud rendering, stone columns, and wooden lintels painted with geometric motifs.

The traditional characteristics of Najdi towns include a dense urban fabric, narrow streets, and buildings that feature an inner courtyard and thick walls to naturally regulate temperature.

“This whole, complete structure (of Diriyah) reflects life in a desert environment, one that has managed to exist because of the natural aspect of the land, which allowed people to settle in the area,” said Shaer.

“It is a settlement within an oasis, and oases are always very special places because they provide water, life and some kind of biodiversity.”

According to the case that was presented to UNESCO when At-Turaif was nominated as a World Heritage Site, the lattice of dry valleys in the area was carved out during wetter geological periods. As a result, water tables survived permanently in the ground under some of these valleys, which could be utilized by digging wells.

“Wadi Hanifah is one of the rare places where there used to be enough rainfall to sustain some form of agriculture, especially palm groves and irrigated oasis agriculture,” said Shaer. “At the same time, people dug wells to extract ground water. They used animals, camels and horses, to transport the water.”

Another factor in the site’s favor is its historical authenticity, thanks to its relatively undisturbed urban and architectural treasures.

“The initial planning is well preserved and can be clearly observed in its road network, and the place has not been subject to excessively aggressive development,” explained Shaer.

In addition to its wonderful urban coherence, At-Turaif’s social, political, spiritual and religious functions developed simultaneously and organically alongside its physical growth.

“This was also recognized by the World Heritage Committee as matching one of the conditions for the inscription on its list,” said Shaer.

One of UNESCO’s criteria for World Heritage status is that a site needs to be “directly or tangibly associated with events or living traditions, with ideas or with beliefs, with artistic and literary works of outstanding universal significance.”

The significance of At-Turaif is directly related to the founding in Diriyah of the First Saudi State in 1744, at the heart of the Arabian peninsula, and its subsequent development.

Now, more than a decade after At-Turaif was inscribed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, this birthplace of what became, almost two centuries later, the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia, is an increasingly popular major tourist attraction.

Visitors can stroll among the remains of the old mud-brick buildings, families can picnic under date palms as children play on the paths that snake between modern conveniences such as restaurants and coffee shops.

The admirably ambitious goal of the Diriyah Gate Development Authority is to transform this historic attraction into “one of the world’s lifestyle destinations for culture and heritage, hospitality, retail and education.”

“It is good to see Diriyah open up for tourists,” said Shaer. “Visitors come here to learn and understand history, our past. Culture can bring people together. Diriyah reminds us of all the things we humans have in common.”

But in a world where many sites of historical importance are exposed to potential hazards, whether accidental, deliberate or as a result of natural disasters, tourists have a crucial role to play in ensuring that Diriyah survives and thrives for future generations to admire and enjoy. They need to learn the importance of conservation and efforts to protect and preserve historic sites, said Shaer.

“In the end, these sites are fragile,” she added. “Diriyah is fragile and we need to take care of it — all of us.”

She said that the responsibility for the protection of World Heritage sites does not lie solely with the authorities in the countries where they are located.

“We all have this responsibility, on so many levels; it is a collective responsibility,” she added. “The World Heritage Convention was created just for that. Its very raison d’etre is the collective responsibility of the international community to ensure the protection and conservation of sites that are important for all of us and, most crucially, for the future generations.

“Because we humans have a pressing need to understand our past, cultural heritage is part of our universal human identity. So, sites are inscribed as (part of the) world heritage precisely so they can be conserved and protected.”

Perhaps no one is more excited about the return to prominence of Diriyah than Saudis themselves, especially young people. When the Diriyah Gate Development Authority launched the recent Rawi Al-Diriyah (Diriyah’s storyteller) competition to encourage students to learn about the Kingdom’s ancient storytelling tradition, more than 250,000 middle-school and high-school students registered for the contest, and more than 12,000 entries were submitted.

“Such initiatives are very important,” said Shaer. “When you have these kind of intangible, cultural heritage-awareness activities, or even creative cultural activities that can be connected to a physical place, it helps people to understand why this site was important.

“This helps strengthen the connection with the place as it gives people the opportunity to integrate the intangible values with the tangible aspect of the place. You can identify with it and understand more why you want to preserve it for future generations, for your children and grandchildren. It can play a positive role in your life.”

Diriyah, past, present and future
On Saudi Arabia’s 91st National Day, the birthplace of the Kingdom continues to make history

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70 participants graduate in Riyadh AI and Innovation Hackathon 

Updated 26 May 2025
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70 participants graduate in Riyadh AI and Innovation Hackathon 

RIYADH: Seventy participants have completed the AI and Innovation Hackathon program held in Riyadh recently.

Organized by the Financial Academy, in partnership with MEDGULF Insurance Company, the program is aimed at training national talents capable of driving the development of the insurance sector in the Kingdom, in line with the goals of Saudi Vision 2030.

The hackathon included several key phases, starting with data collection and pertinent challenges, followed by awareness sessions and inviting applications, then idea screening, and the selection of the best candidates. 

The five-month event culminated in an intensive five-day hackathon with creative engagement from the participants.

The Financial Academy has several responsibilities and mandates, such as: including training and qualifying employees working in the financial sectors, setting standards and requirements for practicing professions in the financial services market, publishing scientific research.


Supreme Court calls on Muslims in Saudi Arabia to sight Dhul Hijjah crescent moon on Tuesday evening

Saudi Arabia’s Supreme Court called on Muslims in the Kingdom to sight the crescent moon of Dhul Hijjah on Tuesday evening.
Updated 26 May 2025
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Supreme Court calls on Muslims in Saudi Arabia to sight Dhul Hijjah crescent moon on Tuesday evening

  • Court requested that anyone sighting the crescent moon with the naked eye or through binoculars report to the nearest court and record their testimony

RIYADH: Saudi Arabia’s Supreme Court called on Muslims in the Kingdom to sight the crescent moon of Dhul Hijjah on Tuesday evening, Saudi Press Agency reported.

Tuesday is the 29th of Dhul Qadah and if the crescent moon is sighted that day, the month of Dhul Hijjah, during which Hajj takes place, will start on Wednesday May 28. In this case, the first day of Eid Al-Adha will take place on Friday June 6.

If the crescent moon is not sighted on Tuesday evening, Dhul Hijjah will start on Thursday and the first day of Eid will be on Saturday June 7.

The court requested that anyone sighting the crescent moon with the naked eye or through binoculars report to the nearest court and record their testimony, or contact the nearest center to assist them in reaching the nearest court.


AlUla’s rawi historians tell tales as old as time

Updated 26 May 2025
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AlUla’s rawi historians tell tales as old as time

  • Storytellers keep oral tradition alive by guiding tourists in ancient city
  • Reciters of poetry tell the stories of historic sites 

JEDDAH: In the timeless landscape of AlUla, stories are not only carved or marked into rock — they are carried in the hearts and voices of its people.

Among those preserving and sharing memories is Aljawharah Ibrahim Abdulkarim, a rawi — or oral storyteller — in the heritage, culture and events department at the Royal Commission for AlUla.

She told Arab News: “Several years ago I took a number of tour guiding courses and decided to pursue a career in this field. I was born and raised in AlUla, so I grew up hearing stories and learning about AlUla Old Town from my parents and relatives who lived there, which allowed me to better understand the history of the site.”

Storytelling for Abdulkarim is not just a job, but a mission. As a native of AlUla, she offers a rare blend of authenticity and academic insight, which she weaves into the tours she leads.

She added: “Since I’ve lived in AlUla my entire life, I’ve witnessed its amazing transformation over the years. Through my work as a rawi I’ve also seen firsthand the exciting future that lies ahead for this unique place. All of these experiences have helped enrich my personal story of AlUla.”

The rawi has historically played an important role in Arab culture, serving as a reciter of poetry and stories.

A trilingual speaker — fluent in her native Arabic, as well as in English and French — Abdulkarim represents the next generation of rawis that will show, and tell, the tales of their ancestors.

She said: “I first started learning English in AlUla. Later, I had the opportunity to travel to France on an RCU scholarship created especially for AlUla students. While there I learned French and obtained my master’s degree in international hospitality management.”

Her ability to connect with international visitors became a key asset, and she added: “The fact that I am a trilingual rawi helps me to better understand the different tourists that come to AlUla, offer more personalized responses to their questions, and share with them the special story of AlUla.

“I’ve also had the chance to represent AlUla and my colleagues across several conferences and campaigns in the Kingdom and globally, connecting me with an even broader audience.”

While much research has been devoted to ancient sites like Dadan and Hegra, Abdulkarim is passionate about shedding light on AlUla — especially the human stories of AlUla’s Old Town.

She said: “There is a lot of available historical information and research for different ancient civilizations, especially for sites in Dadan and Hegra. However, when it comes to places like AlUla Old Town, it is quite different as we are talking about contemporary history.”

What sets her storytelling apart is her commitment to blending historical accuracy with personal memory — without conflating the two.

She said: “The people who once lived there are still with us today, and they’re able to share their stories in their own words.

“During my tours I usually start by sharing historical facts, and then I include memories from my father and family. I make sure to keep the two separate, so the history and personal stories are both respected and clearly understood.”

Beyond those narratives, Abdulkarim regularly invites other community members to lend their voices to the tours.

She added: “During our tours we also invite members of the local community to participate by sharing their stories and knowledge, helping us to tell the broader history of AlUla, through the voices of those who have lived it.”

These efforts are especially resonant during themed tours in which the history is deeply personal.

She added: “For example, during one of our special tours in Ramadan, called Ramadan Memories, my father contributed by sharing how the people of Old Town used to spend the holy month, recounting their daily routines, the food they prepared, their work, and their cherished traditions. In doing so, we offer our valued guests a truly unique and personal experience.”

Preserving and presenting heritage in such moments is more than recounting stories — it is about keeping the very culture and voice alive for future generations.

She said: “Sharing our heritage with people is crucial to prevent it from being lost, especially as elements of heritage can also be intangible.

“AlUla is a jewel to us, and persevering the heritage of the city not only helps to protect our past but also safeguards our present and shapes our future.”

That future is being actively protected, and she added: “Today, for example, we have the first Saudi Heritage Ranger team that are working hard to protect our tangible heritage in our historical and archaeological sites for the coming generations.”

In AlUla, the past is not forgotten: It is spoken, heard and passed down with pride. Through voices like Abdulkarim’s, these stories — some as old as time — are finding new ears.


Saudi minister holds talks with Chinese, EU officials on climate, global issues 

Updated 25 May 2025
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Saudi minister holds talks with Chinese, EU officials on climate, global issues 

RIYADH: Saudi Arabia's Minister of State for Foreign Affairs and Climate Envoy Adel Al-Jubeir received China's Special Envoy for Climate Change Liu Zhenmin in Riyadh on Sunday.

During the meeting, they discussed strengthening cooperation in climate action and environmental conservation, along with other topics of mutual interest.

Both officials also reviewed the Kingdom’s ongoing initiatives and achievements in this field, the Saudi Press Agency reported.

In a separate meeting, Al-Jubeir received the deputy secretary-general for political affairs at the European External Action Service, Olof Skoog, and his accompanying delegation.

The meeting reviewed international developments and the efforts being made to address them, in addition to discussing topics of mutual interest.


Sheikh Saleh bin Humaid to deliver Arafah sermon during Hajj 2025

Sheikh Saleh bin Humaid will deliver the Arafah sermon during this year’s Hajj. (@PRAGOVSA)
Updated 59 min 26 sec ago
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Sheikh Saleh bin Humaid to deliver Arafah sermon during Hajj 2025

  • The day of Arafah (the 9th of Dhul Hijjah) is widely considered the pinnacle of Hajj, marking the most important day for pilgrims
  • The sermon is delivered from Masjid Al-Nimra on Mount Arafat before Dhuhr and Asr prayers are performed together on Dhul Hijjah 9

RIYADH: Sheikh Saleh bin Humaid will deliver the Arafah sermon during this year’s Hajj, the Presidency of Religious Affairs announced on Sunday.

The day of Arafah (the 9th of Dhul Hijjah) is widely considered the pinnacle of Hajj, marking the most important day for pilgrims. Muslims around the world who are not performing the pilgrimage mark the day by fasting and engaging in worship.

The sermon is delivered from Masjid Al-Nimra on Mount Arafat before Dhuhr and Asr prayers are performed together on Dhul Hijjah 9.

Head of Religious Affairs of the Grand Mosque and the Prophet’s Mosque Sheikh Abdulrahman Al-Sudais thanked King Salman and Crown Prince Mohammed bin Salman for the appointment.

The appointment underscores the Kingdom’s global religious leadership, reflects its continued support for religious institutions, and exemplifies the leadership’s care for the two holy mosques, the presidency said.