OM ESHR, Sudan: As generations of Sudanese have done before her, Wissal Abdel Ghany crouched next to a fire to prepare a traditional drink, a thirst-quenching favorite enjoyed during the fasting month of Ramadan.
In Sudan, the arduously made “helo-murr,” which means “bittersweet,” is a drink synonymous with the Islamic holy month.
It can be found on almost every table across the northeast African country at the end of the day’s fast.
“Without it, our table feels empty,” said Abdel Ghany, wearing a bright orange headscarf.
She sat in a small room in the village of Om Eshr, on the outskirts of the capital Khartoum, which teemed with a small force of women busily scraping and spreading a mixture before serving the beverage in clear glasses.
The drink has satisfied thirsty fasters for decades and recipes are “inherited from our mothers and grandmothers,” the 43-year-old said.
Corn is harvested and left to dry in the sun before being ground and mixed with spices such as fenugreek, cumin or even hibiscus — Sudan’s other essential Ramadan beverage.
This mixture is then soaked in sugar and water for several days.
Abdel Ghany spread a layer of the thick brown paste over a grill plate above the coals of a wood fire, cooking it into a thin, leather-colored film.
The resulting crepe-like layer is then peeled away and stored — ready to be soaked in the final step to create the beloved drink.
Served as cold as possible, the drink is one of many ways that fasting Sudanese cool off, a significant challenge in one of the world’s hottest countries.
The daytime fasting month of Ramadan is one of the five pillars of Islam.
Observant Muslims refrain from eating and drinking from dawn to dusk, after which they traditionally gather with family and friends to break their fast.
In Sudan, the brew is so identified with Ramadan that even the US embassy took to Twitter to promote its staff making it, with diplomats wielding wooden spoons over embers and sipping the amber liquid.
Abdel Ghany said preparing the drink is a collective effort, bringing “together our sisters and friends.”
“We make it together to share among ourselves,” she said.
In Sudan’s cities, she added, some people don’t make it themselves.
“But they still have to offer it for dinner, so they buy it ready-made,” she said.
For Abdel Ghany, the preparation of helo-murr and the holy month cannot be separated.
“All it takes is a whiff of the scent coming out of a home to know that Ramadan is here,” she said.
Sudan’s speciality ‘bittersweet’ Ramadan drink
https://arab.news/z56d7
Sudan’s speciality ‘bittersweet’ Ramadan drink
- In Sudan, the arduously made “helo-murr,” which means “bittersweet,” is a drink synonymous with Ramadan
- It can be found on almost every table across the northeast African country at the end of the day’s fast
Where We Are Going Today: UPSTAIRS restaurant in Alkhobar
- A delicious appetizer you must try are the crispy cheese zaa’tar rolls
Can you guess where it is? That is right, upstairs! UPSTAIRS restaurant in Alkhobar is a quaint and calm breakfast and brunch place located in The BLOCK just above WeBrew Cafe.
With a light beige/pink stone interior, a big tree in the middle and elevated views of the neighborhood, UPSTAIRS is a beautiful breakfast spot that guarantees a relaxed start to your day.
It has a diverse menu with all your classic brekkie favorites plus a few wild cards, but some things are better than others.
A delicious appetizer you must try are the crispy cheese zaa’tar rolls. They arrived to the table piping hot and are delicious as a savory snack on their own but even better dipped in the supplied honey, balancing out the saltiness with a bit of sweetness. Do keep in mind, however, that they are pretty heavy and you might not have much.
Visitors will love the shakshouka. The eggs can be cooked according to your preference and the tomato flavor really shines through. It is served with a feta cream cheese on the edges for those who like their eggs a little creamier, and homemade sourdough bread that, as a bread fanatic, is so good you might eat it on its own.
UPSTAIRS also has a selection of flat breads that contain different types of cheese, a shiitake mushroom and truffle one, pepperoni, musakhan chicken and more.
Some other items on the menu promise more than they can deliver. The richy omelette does not live up to its name. The creamy mushroom sauce it comes with is good but the omelette itself is flat and does not taste very good. You might skip it if you like.
You must also try the breakfast burrito — an item not often seen in Saudi breakfast options. The UPSTAIRS burrito comes with oven-roasted potatoes, avocado and eggs. What is not to love? Definitely try it out to see if it lives up to its potential.
You may also order karak tea for the table. It is fine and enjoyable enough but definitely not the best karak in the city.
UPSTAIRS has a whole host of other items available including sweet potatoes topped with scrambled eggs and avocados, eggplant fatteh, Tunisian eggs, Turkish eggs, foul, scrambled eggs on a croissant, halloumi dishes and a selection of sweet items as well like banana French toast, acai, blueberry pancakes and other snacky bits.
Recipes for success: Vladimir Chistyakov offers advice and a tasty stir-fried noodles recipe
DUBAI: By the time Vladimir Chistyakov stepped into a professional kitchen for the first time at age 30, he was told it was already too late.
“A lot of people said: ‘If you want to be a chef, you should’ve started 10 years ago,’” Chistyakov tells Arab News. Happily, he didn’t listen to them.
Now 40, the Serbian is the brand chef for Dubai-based Metafoodies, a group that includes ALBA Street (Asian street food), ALBA (upscale pan-Asian), Himitsu (a speakeasy bar) and Bisou (Mediterranean fusion).
Before entering the culinary world, Chistyakov explored careers in journalism, marketing and even mobile repair. But it was not until he enrolled in a short culinary course that everything changed. “Our chef showed us how to make a really nice chicken stock,” he says. “In that moment, I knew this was my future.”
He continues: “Don’t listen to people who say you’re too late. If you love it, do it. Every day. And one day, it could change your life.”
When you started out, what was the most common mistake you made?
It was difficult to make something simple. I was trying to impress, you know? Too many textures, a lot of sauce, a ton of ingredients... But now I understand what simplicity is.
What’s your top tip for amateur chefs?
Cooking is like a form of meditation. Don’t stress. It won’t be perfect, and that’s OK. They key is to enjoy the process and do your best. It’s an art. It’s about emotion. It’s a way to disconnect from the world. It doesn’t matter if you are cooking at home or in a professional kitchen, you have to enjoy the process and immerse yourself in it.
What one ingredient can instantly improve any dish?
Oils. They are the cheat code for almost all food. But, also, don’t forget about love. If you’re not cooking it with love and with respect for your people or yourself, it will not taste nice. There’s a lot of different hacks for food, but oils and love are the main ones.
When you go out to eat, do you find yourself critiquing the food?
I try to never think about it, but it’s a professional habit. I’m not a harsh critic, but I hate when everything in the place is made without soul, you know? Like, when you feel there is no life to anything. That’s really terrible. The food can taste really good, but if it is made without life, you feel it.
What’s the most-common issue that you find in other restaurants?
The most important thing: service. The people on the floor are the first to welcome you. Ninety-nine percent of your happiness at a restaurant is not about the food, it’s about service.
What’s your favorite cuisine to eat?
I love Italian food. It’s really simple. But it’s difficult to find a good Italian place. There are a lot of different really expensive places (in the UAE), but a restaurant like one you would find in Rome and Milan, where you can eat for 10 Euros and, like, the portion of pasta is good, is almost impossible to find here.
I also like Japanese food. I am from Siberia — part of Asia. We have a culture code from the Asian countries. We eat a lot of raw fish, but it’s not sea fish, it’s river fish.
What’s your go-to dish if you have to cook something quickly at home?
I like pasta with parmigiano or tomatoes. Or, if it’s a really lazy day, noodles or dumplings. If you come to our home, you’ll find boxes of instant noodles in the kitchen — a lot of different types.
What’s your favorite dish to cook ?
When I have time, I like to make something from my childhood. I really love Laghman — it’s like ramen, from the family of this same soup, but from Uzbekistan. It’s amazing. I love it. It’s difficult to make. You need a lot of time, but really nice. I also like braised potatoes with meat. That reminds me of my childhood and my family in Russia.
What’s the most difficult dish for you to get right?
An omelet. It’s difficult to make it light and fluffy without overcooking it. It’s an art, and it depends on your mood and your emotions. Early in my career, I went on vacation to France and found a great place for an internship. When I arrived, the head chef, a really old, funny guy, looked at me and said, “Make me an omelet.” So I did. And for me, that moment was really meaningful — like a test of who I was as a chef. But the thing is, sometimes your emotions affect your cooking. If you’re not in the right state of mind, it shows in the food. You might still make a decent omelet, but it won’t be the same. You have to control everything: the temperature of the pan, the heat of the butter, the timing. You have to feel it all.
As a head chef, what are you like?
Five years ago, I was like a devil in the kitchen, but I’ve changed a lot since then. It’s hard to be honest all the time, to really lead with intention and stay in control. I don’t yell at everyone like I used to. I really make an effort. Of course, there are moments, if something goes wrong during a really important service, that I might lose my temper. But it’s rare — maybe once a year. I like when the kitchen runs like an orchestra. Everyone knows their role, the rhythm is right, and the energy flows between the team, not just with the guests, but with the kitchen staff. I want the team to feel the emotion of the moment, to feel the pace, but without stress. You can’t cook good food when you’re stressed. If someone’s out of sync, you can sense it immediately. That’s why I always come back to one thing: balance. I try to stay balanced in everything.
Chef Vladimir’s stir fried spicy noodles
Ingredients:
White onion 30 g
Mixed mushrooms (shiitake, enoki, champignons, etc.) 30 g
Bell pepper 65 g
Wagyu beef 80 g
Ramen noodles 150 g
Sunflower oil 10 g
Spring onion 10 g
Chives 10 g
Red chili (long) 1 g
Ramen sauce 50 g
Preparation:
Slice the white onion into half rings, mushrooms into thin slices, and bell pepper into strips. Cut the beef into thin strips. Boil the ramen noodles until al dente, according to package instructions.
Stir-fry:
Heat sunflower oil in a wok or deep skillet over high heat.
Add the onion and sauté until translucent.
Add mushrooms and bell pepper, stir-fry for 1–2 minutes.
Add the beef and stir-fry until nicely seared.
Combine:
Add the ramen noodles and mix with the other ingredients.
Pour in the ramen sauce and stir-fry for another 1–2 minutes.
Finish with chives, spring onion, and finely sliced red chili.
Serve:
Plate the noodles and garnish with herbs or sesame seeds, if desired.
Sauce:
Dark soy sauce 10 g
Soy sauce 10g
Oyster sauce 20 g
Olive oil 20 g
Sesame oil 10 g
Sweet Chilli 10 g
Sugar 5 g
Where We Are Going Today: Kuuru in Riyadh
Kuuru, an ambitious Saudi concept from Leylaty Group and Peru’s MCK Hospitality, delivers on its promise of a vibrant fusion of Peruvian passion and Japanese precision.
The experience begins upon entry. The interior is undeniably sophisticated, radiating a chic, fine-dining ambiance perfect for a special culinary journey.
Visiting the Riyadh branch located in the King Abdullah Financial District, the service was impeccable, significantly elevating the evening. Our server was a knowledgeable guide, tailoring recommendations and orchestrating a seamless flow of dishes.
The culinary adventure started strong. The Kuuru ceviche was a standout, incredibly fresh and complex. Be advised: Its vibrant acidity is boldly and intensely sour, a hallmark purists adore but some palates might find assertive.
The hotate aburi offered rich, creamy scallop perfection. The tiradito hotate, featuring luxurious Hokkaido scallops and truffle, delivered exquisite flavor, though a touch more textural contrast (perhaps a crisp element) would have elevated its otherwise soft composition.
The Nikkei-style nigiri maintained excellence. The nakka truffle (salmon belly) was beautifully balanced and simple, while the wagyu a lo pobre with the quail egg added to the umami experience.
The niku karashi main course featured a succulent grilled ribeye, perfectly complemented by Nikkei chimichurri and Japanese sweet mustard atop smooth potato puree.
Dessert provided a satisfying finale. The Lima chocoreto combined moist chocolate cake with Peruvian manjar (dulce de leche), ganache, and honeycomb — rich yet not cloying.
The signature Aka sour cocktail proved a vibrant companion throughout but may have been overpowering on the palate, especially with the already sour element to the dishes I ordered.
My verdict is that Kuuru offers a compelling, multisensory Nikkei experience within Riyadh’s upscale dining scene. While the ceviche’s sourness is authentic and the tiradito hotate could benefit from added texture, these are minor notes in an otherwise superb symphony.
Backed by stellar service, a distinctive menu, and an elegant setting, Kuuru is a must-visit destination for adventurous food lovers seeking memorable fusion.
Where We Are Going Today: Llama Cafe in Alkhobar
- Food-wise, the SR25 Sahara chicken mirage salad was a standout: Fresh, full of textures and colors with pieces of chicken, sun-dried tomatoes, greens, yellow corn and even little bits of toasted nuts
Llama Cafe, with its whimsical name and minimalistic branding, could have easily leaned into gimmicky novelty, but it instead delivers an experience that feels polished and playful.
The homegrown brand launched in Dammam some years ago and has since expanded across the Eastern Province. We visited the Alkhobar location, the second branch, which opened last year.
Sunlight poured in through massive windows, illuminating the space. The to-go fridge at the entrance was ideal for grabbing sandwiches or salads quickly.
I ordered the Llama iced tea, which features a refreshing hibiscus blend and thankfully contains no trace of actual llama.
Though SR21 ($5) felt steep for the small size, the drink came in a charming, durable cup that was so well made I gladly took it home to wash and reuse.
Food-wise, the SR25 Sahara chicken mirage salad was a standout: Fresh, full of textures and colors with pieces of chicken, sun-dried tomatoes, greens, yellow corn and even little bits of toasted nuts.
It was all coated in a light dressing that you drizzle yourself. My favorite part — aside from the deliciousness — was that it was served in a compostable container.
For dessert, I chose the Madrid cheesecake (SR19), which the staff eagerly recommended. It had a golden, slightly caramelized top and a buttery, well-balanced crust that added just the right amount of texture.
Speckled with real vanilla bean, it was creamy and rich in the middle without feeling heavy. It struck that ideal middle ground between airy and indulgent. Definitely worth trying!
I had been trying to cut back my caffeine intake but could not resist trying the seemingly popular V60 drip. I ordered mine iced with Guatemalan beans (SR20), served with perfectly shaped cubes that melted at just the right pace.
A cylinder aquarium situated by the pickup station was peculiar to me. It contained a real fish swimming inside — an oddly soothing mascot for a llama-named cafe.
Up the flight of stairs — I did not notice an elevator — the space was filled with small tables ideal for working. On the day of our visit, a midday and midweek stop, almost every table was occupied with a laptop. Wall plugs were available throughout and the two restrooms were tiny but spotless.
The main floor had plenty of seating, including some directly outside, for those who dared to brave the scorching hot weather to perhaps smoke or work on their tan.
The cafe sells locally baked sourdough bread that is sliced and bagged, and I cannot wait to return to try it.
For more details visit Instagram @llama.cafe.
Where We Are Going Today: Labash – Egyptian restaurant in Riyadh
- We tried the zinger meal with fries and drinks. It was flavorful and filling, though prices were on the high side
We recently visited Labash, a popular Egyptian restaurant in Riyadh known for its casual, no-plate dining style — serving food directly on the table for a fun and interactive experience.
The menu featured a variety of options like skewer-grilled chicken, beef skewers, and crispy chicken strips. One standout was The Works, which includes unlimited fries, drinks, pickles, and bread.
While ideal for groups, orders at the table lead to excessive portions and higher costs.
We tried the zinger meal with fries and drinks. It was flavorful and filling, though prices were on the high side. Seven different sauces added depth to each dish, but the quality of the meat did not fully justify the cost, especially compared to similar offerings elsewhere.
Service was decent, and the lively atmosphere added to the appeal — though the noise level may deter those seeking a quieter setting.
One downside was the amount of food wasted, both at our table and others. This highlighted the need for portion control or alternative serving options to reduce waste.
For more, visit @labash.ksa on Instagram.
